Kimchi and Cornbread

Damyang Marathon

2011-11-08T20:28:00.001-05:00

I love running in Korea. I love training in the mountains and taking part in the weekend races. I have yet to find a community in Korea where Koreans so fully embrace foreigners as I have found in the running community. They are warm, encouraging and just downright fun and welcoming.

Here is a little video from our weekend run in Damyang. Last year, Lindsay did the 5K while pregnant with Finn. This year she carried him across the finish line after finishing a brutal half-marathon. It was incredible.

Good Luck Awesome Truck!!!

2011-11-01T21:38:00.001-04:00

I wrote this for Lindsay's Say Kimchi Newsletter, but I also wanted to share it here. These are 3 good guys that make a mean taco. If you are ever in Gwangju find them. I also highly recommend trying out a food truck nearby you, wherever that might be.

While I was home this summer I discovered the joys of the food truck. These days in the United States, chefs are taking their gourmet skills to the streets in renovated FedEx and bread trucks. You are to check Twitter or Facebook for their location. One can find curry, burgers, crepes, ice cream among other more exotic cuisine on these trucks.

Just months after I got back to Korea, I happily discovered the Awesome Truck on Facebook serving the food truck holy grail: the Korean taco! A Korean taco uses chicken, pork, beef and/or tofu marinated in those wonderful Korean marinades. Imagine the taste of galbi, chicken galbi or bulgolgi mixed with cilantro, cabbage (sometimes kimchi), red onions and cucumber in a tortilla! It is a culinary delight.

For a while their locations were too far away for me. Sangmu, Gwangju Women’s Hospital, Chonnam. My whereabouts never seemed to match up with theirs. But as I sat in a local ex-pat bar one Saturday night, word that the Awesome Truck was just blocks away swept through like wildfire. I quickly made my way toward their location in front of Grand Hotel.

Run by friends Hanul Cho, Kwang-Ho Jang and Jun Hyuk Yang, the Awesome Truck runs like a well-oiled machine. Kwang-Ho usually stands out front spreading the word and taking orders while Hanul and Jun Hyuk work tirelessly within the truck making their delicious tacos and quesadillas.Hanul spent a while in Guatemala learning Spanish and trying the local cuisine. About a year and a half ago a friend of his got him thinking about opening a Korean taco truck in Gwangju. “We wanted to provide Korea with a different cuisine than what they’re used to,” Hanul said about starting the Awesome Truck, “by providing them with authentic cuisine from Latin American countries with a little flair.”
Hanul went to work obtaining a truck and his equipment while honing his skills working at Outback Steakhouse. About a month ago, the three got the griddle fired up, the engine running and the tweets tweeting.

Within 10 minutes my friends and I were eating our tacos. The Awesome Truck offers chicken galbi or bulgolgi beef. The meat has a subtle taste but goes well with the cheese, cabbage and pink Korean salsa that gives their tacos a nice kick. The quesadillas consist of cheese and your choice of meat topped with the Korean salsa. They do justice to the Latin-America-meets-Korea cuisine.

Follow Awesome Truck on Twitter and Facebook and expect to find them between 12 to 2pm for lunch and 5 to 11pm for dinner. Be on the lookout for their new menu items: a burrito, burritos bowl, the awesome hotdog and chicken tomato soup. Awesome Truck does not disappoint.

Twitter: http://twitter.com/#!/awesometruck

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/groups/289197304425011/

Running the trails of Korea

2011-10-27T10:19:00.002-04:00

I thought running in South Korea would be terrible. I envisioned crowded sidewalks and lots of pollution. I even thought I'd have to give up my passion to live here. I was so wrong. South Korea is full of great places to run. Through rice fields, gravel paths around reservoirs and the trails. Oh, the trails. Up and down and around every mountain in the country, trails are ubiquitous. Sometimes they are full of geared-out hikers, but if you catch them at the right time (say before 6AM) and in the right season(winter keeps most Koreans inside) you can have the trails all to yourself. From about March to December you can run a well-organized race every weekend. Korea is somewhat of a running country. You might even take up the sport if you move here.Here's a brief running video of my last outing. A 5 hour run up and down Mudeung Mountain in Gwangju. Enjoy!

Finn, the Foreign Baby

2011-09-22T21:34:00.001-04:00

Our son Finn is one of the most unique citizens of Gwangju. A blonde hair, blue eyed, 9-month old baby isn't unlike seeing a unicorn trotting down your town's Main Street. He gets treated like a celebrity by the women in our neighborhood and he is much more Sean Penn about it than, say, Charlie Sheen. He'll stare at the beaming face of the old woman talking to him in Korean and lean more toward crying and less toward smiling. I love showing him off, but he is definitely a reluctant celebrity.

Get an EPIK job in Korea!

2011-09-15T02:48:00.002-04:00

Our partner recruiter, Say Kimchi Recruiting, is now offering public school jobs for spring 2012 through EPIK (English Program in Korea).

These are no doubt the best (and most competitive) jobs in the country, so you have to act fast if you're interested! EPIK works on a first-come, first-serve basis, and the application period opens Oct. 1!

Learn more about the process below! And if you're interested, be sure to e-mail us at lindsay@saykimchirecruiting.com.

Who is Eligible to Teach in Korean Public Schools?
EPIK provides equal opportunities for everyone, it's basically a matter of timing!

Applicants must have:

Completed a bachelors degree or equivalent at an accredited college or university
Be a citizen of a country where the primary language is English
Be fluent in English
Meet the requirements for an E-2 Visa

Compensation
EPIK offers best employment packages in Asia:

Salary up to 2.7 million won/month (avg. is 2.0-2.2 million Korean won)
Over 5 weeks of vacation
1.3 million won entrance and exit allowance for flight
Free Furnished Apartment

EPIK 2012 spring hiring schedule:

October 1. Hiring kick-off. Get your applications in NOW! With this, you need two reference letters from bosses, with the official letterhead on it.

November 31. Hiring closed. EPIK will hire 1,200 teachers in total! But the jobs are competitive! Do you have a teaching license? Certificate? TESL/TEFL/CELTA? All this can help!

December 30. EPIK must have all the required documents and the paperwork process is now completed.

February 18. Arrival. One week orientation.

March 1. Start teaching!!

Start preparing NOW...items to start collecting BEFORE applying:

2 reference letters (original inked)
Nation-wide criminal record with apostilled authentication (process started).

(For Canadians, notarized by the Korean consulate)
(for Americans, it takes 5 to 12 weeks to get FBI checks!)

Bachelor s degree (or official verification letter) with apostilled authentication (process started)

Required documents for applying

Application form (available through Say Kimchi Recruiting)
Scanned letters of recommendation (with official letterhead/logo from organization). These must be from former boss or employer.
Copy of passport

*if you are applying for Seoul public school positions, additional forms are required.

EPIK pay scale

LEARN MORE! Or APPLY NOW! Visit http://www.saykimchirecruiting.com or e-mail lindsay@saykimchirecruiting.com.

Latest job openings from Say Kimchi Recruiting

2011-05-24T05:35:00.000-04:00

SKR has some great job openings in Korea for those looking to start ASAP! Of course, this means you need to have all your documents ready to send out!

1.(OK this is not ASAP!) FALL 2011 GEPIK positions!! Positions available across Gyeonggi-do province. Apply online at http://www.saykimchirecruiting.com.

2. Work in Seoul, SINCHEON!! Housing in HONGDAE! School is looking for two teachers to start by end of June. Need to have all documents together. Pay is 2.0-2.1. Apply online at http://www.saykimchirecruiting.com.

3. Work in Seoul (Balsan subway station). Hours from 2 to 9 p.m. Pay is 2.1. Start date by end of June. Apply online at http://www.saykimchirecruiting.com.

4. Teach at a PUBLIC SCHOOL in Gyeonggi-do (Uiwang). Great hours, great pay, GREAT vacation! Teacher needed ASAP (June). Apply online at http://www.saykimchirecruiting.com.

5. Teach in a small town near Gwangju. Hogwan in Gwangyang is looking for a teacher to start in June. Pay is 2.1 Apply online at http://www.saykimchirecruiting.com

For more details, e-mail lindsay@saykimchirecruiting.com.

Babywearing

2011-05-24T05:31:00.000-04:00

In Korea, many women choose to wear their babies rather than stroll them around. I love this. I have two carriers and they have both been used religiously since Finn was born.

Also, Korea has a traditional carrier called a "bodegi," which is basically a blanket that ties around your body. I see old grandmothers carrying the tiniest babies on their backs this way all over Korea. I don't have one of these, but I love it!

Korean Costco 101

2011-04-20T02:17:00.002-04:00

A reader wanted to know more about where Costco was located in Korea. Well, good news! There are multiple locations!
Costco has stores in Seoul, Busan, Daejeon, Daegu, and Ilsan. It costs W35,000 (about $30) for a membership.
Here are a few Q&As from the Asian Costco website (English and Korean available) that could be helpful.

	Where can I use my Costco membership?
	Your membership is good at more than 530 Costco locations worldwide. For a complete list of locations, visit [www.costco.com]
	Why do I have to show my membership card upon entrance to the warehouse?
	Since our members pay a fee to shop at Costco, we allow only Costco members to shop. Your picture appears on the card because your membership card can be used only by you and is non-transferable. Your picture also prevents unauthorized use should your card ever be lost and stolen.
	What are Costco’s hours of operation?
	General hours for all warehouses are : Monday through Sunday, 10:00 am to 10:00 pm Yangpyung/Yangjae only are open daily 9:00 am to 10:00 pm
	Why am I asked to show my receipts as I exit the warehouse?
	Staffing the doors is our most effective method of maintaining accuracy in inventory control. It benefits both Costco and our members. This practice ensures that you received everything you paid for and were not overcharged or our undercharged for any item.
	What types of payment does Costco accept?
	You may pay by cash or Samsung Card. We do not accept other credit cards because their fees would increase the costs to us and our members.
	May I bring in a friend who’s not a member?
	Yes. You may bring up to two guests into the warehouse each time you shop, though only Costco members may purchase items.
	Why are there no express lines?
	The answer is two-fold. First, the majority of our members typically purchase a large quantity of products during their shopping visits to our warehouses. Currently, the typical member purchases an average of 14 Items each and every time he or she shops. Secondly, operating an express checkout line adds additional overhead costs, thereby driving up our cost of doing business.
	Why are there no dressing rooms?
	We are trying to adhere to a no-frills policy. This means keeping our costs as low as possible. Dressing rooms take employees to staff them as well as floor space that could be better utilized. But, remember our return policy: if something doesn’t fit, just bring it back for a full refund.
	How do I return merchandise?
	Bring your merchandise and receipt directly to our membership desk for a full and courteous refund. It is helpful (but not required) if you bring the original packaging and literature as well.

Fill 'er up

2011-04-19T09:45:00.000-04:00

We drove three hours today to the nearest Costco. Yep. They have Costco in Korea. It was our virgin trip--ever. Never even been to one in the States.
It was a mishmash of East meets West, with aisles of kimchi and anchovies next to brilliant colored boxes of Honey Nut Cheerios.
Best thing about Costco? The free samples. Almost made myself sick going back for the bread rolls. "You want one honey?" I pretended to ask my husband as I reached out my greedy hands for more.
I wish I could say I took a good photo in Costco. But my senses were on overload with all the brands and things I haven't seen in at least a year.
So after we filled our buggy to the brim and paid a small fortune to the wholesale grocery, we also filled up our car on the way home. Hence the photo.

Neighborhood blips

2011-04-18T05:01:00.000-04:00

As part of my new Blipfoto blog, "Life is a Blip," I headed out this morning with my camera (and taxes!) to walk to the post office. I stopped and took pictures of a lot of scenes that seem normal to me now in Korea. Here are some snapshots of the walk.

Fish. It's what's for dinner.

Milk ladies can be seen all over Korea, always dressed in yellow and pushing their yellow carts of milk and yogurts.

Retired Koreans often push these carts filled to the brim with cardboard. They make about $3 a day.

A man sells fruits and vegetables from his truck. These trucks can be heard coming from miles, as there are loudspeakers attached to them screaming their offerings and prices.

Displaced chairs are a common sight around Korea, despite the fact Korean rarely sit down to relax.

Who wouldn't wanna eat here?


The only sign of a nearby temple is these colorful lanterns celebrating Buddha.

A 10 p.m. dry-cleaning date

2011-04-18T04:44:00.001-04:00

We lucked out and live in a really nice apartment in Gwangju, South Korea. Most apartments are cramped for space--the kitchen and laundry thrown together haphazardly; one bathroom with a shower over the sink; a small apartment building with thin walls between neighbors.

But, we live in a wonderful high-rise with four bedrooms and two bathrooms (unheard of for a couple English teachers here). We have beautiful showers and bathtubs, spacious hard-wood floors, an oven (very rare in Korea), and a huge kitchen and living room. It's perfect for our newly-expanded family and young son.

But one of the random perks of living here is the dry cleaner located at the entrance of the complex. Two men spend their days in this tiny space, ironing shirts and pants with a steam iron that hangs down from the ceiling.

I never have to iron any of my husband's clothes. It's so cheap that we use these kind men once a week to dry clean and iron his work clothes.

Once they finish, they drive their motorcycle up to our building and deliver the clothes themselves. And this is never until after 10 p.m. A little strange. But we'll take it.

Note: This is part of my new Blipfoto blog, an awesome site where you post one photo per day. I will start re-posting many of these "Life is a Blip" photos here.

Most recent job offerings!

2011-04-13T03:00:00.001-04:00

Say Kimchi Recruiting, partner to Kimchi & Cornbread blog, has several really good open positions at schools looking to hire as soon as possible!

Public middle school in Boseong
Location: Boseong, South Korea (about 45 minutes away from the metro city of Gwangju). Please note this is a rural location, albeit a beautiful one! Famous for its green tea fields.
Start date: ASAP (April or May)
Pay: 2.3
Hours: 9 to to 5 or 1 to 8
Housing, flights, severance, insurance, pension provided.
Vacation: Up to 2 months
**NOTE: Because this position starts ASAP, you need to have all your documents ready to be sent to Korea if you are interested.

2. Private academy, Gwangju
Location: Gwangju, South Korea
Start Date: ASAP (Early May)
Pay: 2.1
Hours: 2 to 8 p.m.
Housing, flights, severance, insurance, pension provided
Vacation: 10 days
Note: Because this position starts ASAP, you need to have all your documents ready to be sent to Korea if you are interested.

3. Private Academy

Location: Ochang, near Cheongju city,

Salary: 2.2 mil won

Starting date: ASAP,(by end of April)

Type of students: Elementary & Middle school students

Maximum teaching hours per week: 30hour

Working hours: 1PM~9PM

Working week: mon~friday

Overtime payment: 18,000won per hour

Number of current foreign instructors in this institute:1

Type of housing: Single housing

Airfare: Prepaid/free of charge

Contract Completion bonus: yes,one month salary

Holidays: 10 days of paid vacation in addition to public holidays

Medical Insurance: 50% paid by employer

If you are interested in any of these positions, please apply online at http://www.saykimchirecruiting.com or e-mail lindsay@saykimchirecruiting.com.

Got a sore throat? (I do)

2011-03-30T01:49:00.002-04:00

To relieve a sore throat, eat radish soaked in honey. (Or so says the Chosun Ilbo's Tip of the Day)

Bought it on the G-Market!

2011-03-15T21:27:00.001-04:00

Shopping in Korea is fun. Little boutiques are as common as kimchi, and the brand name stores like H&M and Zara can keep a girl like me VERY happy.

But what about Internet shopping? For me, a new mom who spends most of her time indoors (at least until the weather warms up a few degrees), Internet shopping has become a mainstay.

Let me introduce you to my friend, G-Market.

Founded in 2000 in Korea, it has become the country's No. 1 Internet shopping website. And, believe me, you can find anything on there!

For example, Christmas lights can be a bit expensive around town. But on G-market, they went for about W2,000. (I bought 4 sets)

When I see an article of clothing on the streets for W20,000, G-Market will often have it for cheaper. Shoes, too.

And ever since I started shopping for baby, G-Market has become my mainstay baby supply center. I've bought a baby swing, a baby gym, a baby bouncer, clothes, cloth diapers, a baby crib and much much more.

My husband has just gotten use to getting a forwarded text message from G-Market, saying please deposit xxx into this account. "Ahh, the wife is online again."

Despite its head-spinning homepage with hundreds of blinking and rotating images, it is easy to use for foreigners. Here are a few tips:

Make sure to click on English at the top of the screen. There will still be some Korean here and there but it will be much more navigable.
Try searching for the item you are looking for rather than going through the broad categories. For example, when looking for baby items, I often start at Amazon.com and find the brand I like. Then I type that in the search at G-Market, and BAM. There it is.
Register on the site. This is needed for you to easily order. In my experience, it has been next to impossible to register on the site through a Mac computer. So use your computer at work to register. Then you do do everything else through your Mac.
To pay for an item, the easiest way is "from private account." That way, you simply go to your ATM at your bank and send a wire transfer. Once you make the transfer, they will automatically send you a text message letting you know they received the money.
You will receive another text when the item is shipped. G-Market is FAST. So expect it within a couple days!

Thank you for not smoking

2011-03-11T03:28:00.002-05:00

In an effort to reduce the effects of second-hand smoke, the city of Seoul has passed legislation that bans smoking in 3 major downtown areas.

Starting from March 1, Seoul Plaza, Cheonggye Plaza, and Gwanghwamun Square will be nonsmoking areas.

The city plans to gradually designate additional smoke-free zones throughout the coming year. To ease the transition and create awareness of the policy change, Seoul will be running promotional campaigns until May 31, “World No Tobacco Day.”

Starting from June 1, anyone caught smoking in the prohibited areas will be fined 100,000 won.

Run Gwangju!

2011-03-08T20:25:00.000-05:00

Last week I ran my first 5k post child-delivery here in Gwangju, Korea. This was probably my 5th or 6th race in Korea since we moved here three years ago. And as always, it was a great time.
This year, running has really taken off in the Gwangju community because Whit has started the Gwangju Running Club. The club, which now has more than 100 members, has recently been featured in the Gwangju News, Say Kimchi News, Chosun World magazine, and I believe will soon be featured in the Korea Herald.
It's been a great success and so much fun to be able to run with others in the community--like I used to do back home.
Here are pictures from our most recent 5K.


Our son Finn checks out the race.

Get your pension back

2011-02-23T04:02:00.001-05:00

A lot of new teachers in Korea don't realize that you can actually get back some money at the end of your contract in regard to pension.

This only applies to teachers from North America (Canada and the United States), who have an agreement with Korea.

Here is what you need to do.

Refund Procedure:If you are a national from one of the country’s listed above and have met the requirements, you may be entitled to receive both your and your employer’s NPS contributions. (Conditions do apply so check with the Korean National Pension Scheme website and visit your own Embassy in Seoul’s website).

Documents required when you visit your regional NPS office**:
i)your passport;
ii)your alien registration;
iii)a copy of your bank book (Korean or Canadian bank – but unless the payment is made prior to your departure, you may to give a home bank or ensure that you can access your Korean account after you’ve left the country) and
iv)an airline ticket showing your one-way departure date (e-ticket should be OK).

Your employer will also have to report the termination of the contract to the National Pension Service (NPS) of Korea upon your departure from the country. The NPS will deposit the refund in your bank account after it confirms your departure.

Note: It is also possible to apply for your refund either through an attorney in your home country and on your own, by mail, In both cases, you will have to provide a copy of your passport, a copy of your local bank book, and likely documents proving that you’ve made the payments and that you’re entitled to receive the refund (keep a copy of your alien registration card/number and receive a copy of the necessary documentation from your employer prior to your departure.

Application forms can be found on the National Pension Scheme website:
http://www.nps.or.kr/
For Korean Benefits: http://www.nps.or.kr/html/download/social_security/korean_benefits.doc
For Overseas Remittance:
http://www.nps.or.kr/html/download/social_security/overseas_remittance.doc
Korean Pension Benefits:
Foreign contributors to the Korean National Pension Scheme may also choose to receive their benefits (if/when eligible) rather than take the lump-sum refund. The benefits can be remitted overseas if they have left Korea. However, those who have taken the lump-sum refund are no longer eligible to claim benefits.

**Addresses and Contact Details for the Seoul and Regional NPS offices can be found on the National Pension Scheme website http://www.nps.or.kr/. Click on English - on the English Page look to the right to the map of Korea, click on Go>> and the list of offices will appear. Click on the one you want and all the contact details will appear.

When visiting the NPS office look for the sign that says "Kuk min yeon geum(국민연금)

The Good Year Blip

2011-02-17T03:32:00.000-05:00

A lot of people come to Korea and start blogs (much like Whit and I did with this blog back in 2007). But sometimes it's hard to keep up with a blog, especially when life gets in the way. And life can be pretty interesting in South Korea.

But one of my friends here has found an easier and very creative way to keep up a blog, albeit a photo blog (my favorite kind). His is so good that I must share it with you.

And if you're looking for ways to keep in touch with your family and friends back home, I recommend Blipfoto. It's so much fun.

"The Good Year Blip"

A run into culture

2011-02-16T04:09:00.000-05:00

Today I went out on a jog (slowly getting back into running after my child delivery!) and started hearing something weird over the music on my iPod. I paused the Van Morrison and realized I had happened upon a traditional Korean marching drum line.

They are playing a drum called the Janggu or Janggo, a double-headed hourglass-shaped drum generally played with one stick and one hand.

Here are some pictures of a similar drum line I saw at a festival. But what was awesome about today was that they were just marching up along the small street where I live, no festival or parade around! It was quite the sight for a quiet Wednesday afternoon.

Bottoms up, Korea

2011-02-15T03:42:00.001-05:00

Looks like Korea might have a drinking problem.

Happy Lunar New Year!

2011-02-14T00:01:00.000-05:00

Korea recently celebrated one of their biggest holidays of the year, the Lunar New Year, or Seollal.

This holiday is marked by a large exodus of families heading to the countryside to visit their mothers, fathers, grandfathers and grandmothers. Families cook special meals for the dead, and carry them to their graves hidden on mountainsides beneath the pines. Candles are lit and ancestors are remembered and revered.

Money is handed down to the children, who often dress in traditional garb--hanbok, who must first bow to their elders to receive the cash tucked into an envelope.

But for us, a couple of foreigners, we celebrated the day at home with a quiet afternoon. That was until our doorbell rang and our lovely neighbors--their whole family--came over to bring us a nice Seollal lunch. It is tradition to eat rice cake soup on the first day of the new year. They brought that and some beautiful fruit.

I hope everyone has a happy and healthy 2011--the Year of the Rabbit!

The Great Escape to West Virginia

2011-02-03T08:37:00.001-05:00

I love teaching college. But it is also a great thrill to be able to teach Korean kids once a semester. After spending 2 years teaching some of the smartest and cutest kids in Gwangju, I can't help but love my 4 weeks teaching Chosun University kids camp. At the end of the four weeks we put on a skit for the parents. After teaching my students the songs "Country Roads" and "Going to the Zoo," the only logical thing to do was to write a play about the zoo and West Virginia. After brainstorming with my students about what should happen in the play, here is what I came up with. Enjoy.

Latest job openings from Say Kimchi Recruiting

2011-01-20T01:05:00.001-05:00

Say Kimchi Recruiting (Kimchi and Cornbread's partner recruiting agency) has lots of great jobs open for February and March. Make sure to check them out below! Apply online at http://www.saykimchirecruiting.com.

1. Work in Seoul (Sincheon area!)
Location: Sinchon, Seoul (The school is located on the opposite side of Seogang University, a popular hangout for expats)
Salary: 2. 0
Housing: Private studio apartment located in Hongdae (THE nicest area of Seoul)
Starting date: End of February (Flexible)
Teaching group age: Kindergarten ~ Elementary school students
Working schedule: 12:00pm ~ 7:20pm (flexible)
There are nine foreign teachers at the school and we have recruited several foreign teachers to the school, so we guarantee the good conditions and good quality of this job.

2. Teach adults in Suwon (Hiring 3 foreign teachers and 2 GYOPO teachers!)
Location: Suwon City(Suwon is large city and close to Seoul (connected by subway line) You can get more information through the website:
http://eng.suwon.ne.kr/main_view.asp?page_id=main)
Salary: 2.0~ 2.3 million won(negotiable)
Housing: Private studio apartment
Teaching group age: Adult ( Teacher will teach adults class in the school as well as Samsung Company in Suwon)
Starting date: end of February
There are many foreign teachers in the school and we have recruited many foreign teachers to this school. We guarantee the good conditions and quality of the job.

3. Teach in Gumi (HIRING 4 TEACHERS!)
Location: Gumi city (You can get more information through the website:
http://english.gumi.go.kr/pages/main.jsp)
Salary : 2.3 million won(flexible)
Teaching group age:Kindergarten ~ Elementary
Working schedule: 10:00am ~ 7:00pm (mon ~ friday)
Housing: Private
Starting date: End of January, end of February

4.Work at reputable Canadian-owned hogwan in Gwangju (2 positions open!!)
Starting date: March 1 (arrive in late February)
Work week: Monday - Friday
Pay: 2.1
Location: Gwangju city (Jeollanamdo)
Type of housing: Single
Airfare: Prepaid
Contract completion bonus: One month severance
Holidays: 10 days
Medical insurance: 50 percent

5. Work in Icheon
Location: Gyeonggi-do,Icheon city (read about it here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icheon)
Salary: 2.2~2.3 mil won
Starting date: ASAP (by end of February 2010)
Type of students: Elementary & Middle school students
Maximum teaching hours per week: 30hour
Working hours: 2pm~9pm
Working week: mon~friday
Overtime payment: 20,000won per hour
Number of current foreign instructors in this institute:1
Type of housing: single housing
Airfare: Prepaid/free of charge
Contract Completion bonus: yes,one month salary
Holidays: 10 days of paid vacation in addition to public holidays
Medical Insurance: 50% paid by employer

6. Work in Hwaseong (near Suwon)
Location: Hwaseong city,hyang nam new town area, near Suwon
Salary: 2.4 million won
Starting date : by middle (end ) of February
Type of students:Kinder/Elementary school students
Maximum teaching hours per week: 30hour
Working hours: 10am~6pm
Working week: mon~friday
Overtime payment: 20,000won per hour
Number of current foreign instructors in this institute:2
Type of housing: single housing
Airfare: Prepaid/free of charge
Contract Completion bonus: yes,one month salary
Holidays: 10 days of paid vacation in addition to public holidays
Medical Insurance: 50% paid by employer

7. Work in Busan
Salary: 2.2 million won
Hours: 9:30 to 6 p.m.
Vacation: 7 days
Health insurance, severance pay, pension, flights, included
Starting date: Feb. 15th

Deliver me from ramen

2011-01-16T18:55:00.003-05:00

As a new mom who has no time to cook (and, let's be honest, as a woman who rarely cooked pre-child), I think delivery food is about as good as it gets in my world. Well, actually, my husband's food is as good as it gets--because he's quite the chef. But, on the nights he feels like being as lazy as me, we love some good old fashioned Korean delivery food.

While most expats think this is beyond their reach or capabilities, it's actually pretty easy. Sure, it takes a few awkward first tries. Sometimes you might even need a Korean friend to help you get started.
Whit and I love to order from the places that we call "the diner." This is the basic Korean fare: bibimbap, kimchi jjigae, gimbap, and every other Korean dish you could possibly want.

But to help you get started on ordering from a Korean diner, check on this awesome decoded menu below. I run it in my newsletter about twice a year because it's so helpful. I still find things on there that I've never tried or realized what it was.

So get your "hand-pone" out and dial your local diner. You won't be sorry.

Want to eat at your local neighborhood diner but can’t figure out the menu? Check out this amazing resource, decoded by the wonderfully helpful website Mary Eats.
*note: prices have probably changed since this was first published and varies from restaurant to restaurant.

김밥류, Kimbap Ryu, Kimbap selections
1. 원조 김밥, Wonjo Kimbap, Dollar Kimbap, 1,000 won: The most basic of Kimbap, fillings include damuji (a yellow pickled sweet radish), processed ham, carrots, some green, maybe spinach, and cooked egg.
2. 야채 김밥, Yachae Kimbap, Vegetable Kimbap, 2,000 won: Filled with various veggies including carrots and spinach. Little variation from Won-jo Kimbap.
3. 김치 김밥, Kimchi Kimbap, 2,000 won: Standard kimbap fillings (ham, eggs, carrots, radish) with a healthy dose of kimchi.
4. 계란말이 김밥, Kaeranmal Kimbap, Egg wrapped Kimbap 2,500 won: Standard fillings. The kimbap is rolled in a thin omelet, then sliced.
5. 치즈 김밥, Cheese Kimbap, 2,500 won: Standard kimbap fillings including a slice of processed cheese.
8. 참치 김밥, Chamchi Kimbap, Tuna filled kimbap, 2,500won: Standard kimbap fillings including tuna, gagnib (sesame leaf), and mayonnaise.*
9. 소고기 김밥, Sogogi Kimbap, Beef filled kimbap, 2,500won: Standard kimbap fillings including beef.
10. 누드 김밥, Nude Kimbap, 2,500won: Standard kimbap fillings, like an inside out roll, with the seaweed on the inside and rice on the outside
12. 유부초밥, Youbu chobap, 3,000won: Like inari sushi. Some places heavily season the rice with vinegar.
식사류, Shik Sa Ryu, Meal selections
13. 김치 덮밥, Kimchi dapbap, 3,500 won: Kimchi mixed rice.
14. 오징어 덮밥, Ojinga dapbap, 3,500 won: Spicy squid, carrot onion mélange served either atop, or next to a healthy serving of sticky rice.
15. 제육덮밥, Jaeyuk dapbap, 4,000 won: Stir fried pork, carrots, squash, and onions in spicy sauce served aside a plentiful helping of rice.
16. 카레덮밥, Karae dapbap, 3,500 won: Rice topped with curry sauce, diced potatoes, carrots, and mystery meat.
17. 순두부 찌개, Sundubu Jjigae, 3,500 won: Sometimes fiery bubbling cauldron of soft tofu, freshly cracked egg (don’t stir if you’d like it hard boiled), chili peppers, inoki mushrooms, a couple clams, onions and deunjang (Korean miso) paste. Served with the ubiquitous fire retardant sticky rice.
18. 김치 찌개, Kimchi Jjigae, 3,500 won: Always fiery bubbling cauldron of kimchi, plenty of chili powder and raw chilies, onions and the odd mushroom in a pork broth. Served with the ubiquitous fire retardant sticky rice.*
19. 참치 김치 찌개, Kimchi Chamchi Jjigae, 4,000 won: See above with tinned tuna.
20. 된장 찌개Dwen-jang Jjigae, 3,500 won: Sometimes slightly spicy bubbling cauldron of dwen-jeong paste, inoki mushrooms, onions, clams and the odd cube of tofu. Korea’s answer chicken noodle soup. Served with the ubiquitous fire retardant sticky rice.
21. 갈비 탕, Galbi tang, 4,000 won: Short rib soup with garlic and green onion.
22. 소내장 탕, Sonaejang tang, 4,000 won: Soup made with Cow’s intestines.
23. 육개장, Yuk Jae Jang, 4,000 won: Beef and green onion soup in a fiery chili pepper broth.
24. 다슬기 해장국, Dasolgi haejangguk, 4,000 won: Hangover soup, usually made with ox bones and soybean paste. Featuring fresh water snails. Sometimes made with ox blood.
25. 우거지 해장국, Woogeogi haejangguk, 4,000 won: Hangover soup, usually made with ox bones and soybean paste. Featuring, as I understand it, shredded dried cabbage leaves. Sometimes made with ox blood.
26. 비빔밥, Bibimbap, 3,500 won: A staple. Rice in a silver bowl covered with various veg and gochujang (red chili paste). Carrots, mountain weeds, cucumbers, sprouts, etc.
27. 돌솥 비빔밥, Dolsot bibimbap, 4,000 won: See above served in a hot stone bowl and topped with a (usually) fried egg.*
28. 양푼 비빔밥, Yangpoon bibimbap, 4,000 won: Bibimbap served in a large metal bowl, usually serves two people.
29. 돈까스, Donkkasu, 4,000 won: A pork cutlet coated in egg and dredged in crunchy panko breadcrumbs and deep-fried. Usually served with a nest of shredded cabbage and rice.
30. 치즈 돈까스, Cheese donkkasu, 4,500 won: A pork cutlet graced with a slice of processed cheese, battered and coated in crunchy panko bread crumbs and fried.
31. 생선 까스, Sang sun kkasu, 4,000 won: Breaded and fried fish.
32. 오므라이스, Omu-ra-ee-su 3,500 won: Fried rice with ham, carrots, Asian melon (zucchini-like) and a few peas for color wrapped in a thin omelet and smothered in ketchup. Good morning Korea!
33. 뚝배기 불고기, Ddokbaegi bulgogi 4,000 won: The king of protein at the diner. Stewing bulgogi meat amidst sweet potato (glass) noodles in a peppery savory broth. Served with sticky rice.
34. 김치 고등어 뚝배기, Kimchi godeunga ddokbaegi, 4,000 won:
35. 짜장 덮밥, Jjajang dapbap, 3,000 won: Rice topped off with the sweet black bean sauce, jjajang.
36. 철판 치즈 덮밥, Chulpan chiju dupbap, 4,000 won: Fried rice topped with cheese, or chee ju, on a hot plate.
37. 철판 불고기 덮밥, Chulpan bulgogi dupbap, 4,000 won: Marinated beef atop rice on a hot plate.
38. 철판 김치 볶음밥, Chulpan kimchi bokkum bap, 4,000 won: Kimchi fried rice with peas, carrots and ham served on a hot fajita like plate.
39. 철판 새우 볶음밥, Chulpan saewoo bokkum bap, 4,000 won: Shrimp fried rice with diced carrots and peas served on a hot fajita like plate
40. 공기밥, Gong gi bap, 1,000 won: Plain white sticky rice
41. 호박 죽, Hobak Juk, 3,500 won: Thick pumpkin like porridge.
42. 단팥 죽, Danpat Juk, 3,500 won: A thick red bean porridge.
43. 소고기 야채 죽, Sogogi yache Juk, 4,000 won: Thick rice porridge with meat and various veggies.
44. 전복 죽, Junbok Juk, 5,000 won: Abalone and rice porridge.
분식류, Boon Shik Ryu, Foods made from flour ie noodles, dumplings, etc.
45. 떡볶이, Ddokboggie, 2,000 won: The street snack with chairs. Simmered rice cake (log form) swim in a sea of spicy pepper sauce augmented with odang (processed fish), cabbage, carrots, onions and leeks.
46. 라볶이, Raboggie, 2,500 won: See above and add Ramyeon noodles. Bonus!
47. 치즈떡볶이, Cheese ddokboggie, 2,500 won: See Ddokboggie, add cheese. Bonus! Cheese Raboggie 치즈 라볶이
48. 치즈 라볶이, Cheese raboggie, 3,000 won: See Raboggie and add cheese. Double Bonus!
49. 김치 만두, Kimchi Mandu, 2,000 won: Steamed kimchi, pork, noodle, leek, onion and chili-filled dumplings. Comes with a small side of soy sauce.*
50. 고기 만두, Gogimandu, 2,000 won: Meat, noodle, leek, onion and chili-filled dumplings. Comes with a small side of soy sauce.
Mul mandu 물 만두
51. 물 만두, Mulmandu, 2,500 won: Small dumplings filled with meat and green onions, served in a pond of steaming liquid. Comes with a small side of soy sauce.
Ddok mandu guk 떡만두 국
52. 떡만두 국, Ddok mandu guk, 3,500 won: Sliced rice cakes, meat dumplings, egg, sliced green onion, melon (zucchini-like), and other veggies in a broth.*
53. 떡국, Ddokguk, 3,000 won: A dish traditionally served on the lunar New Year; sliced rice cakes, meat, and egg in a beef broth.
54. 만두국, Mandu guk, 3,500 won: Dumplings and veggies in broth.
55. 항아리 수제비, Hangari sujaebi, 7,000 won: Sujaebe, a vegetable and dumpling. soup served in a pot. Not sure what the exact difference between this and plain old sujaebe is except this is for two people.
56. 라면, Ramyeon, 2,000 won: Green onions and chili powder take cup of noodles to a new level.
57. 떡라면, Ddok ramyeon, 2,500 won: noodles and green onions with sliced rice cakes.*
58. 치즈 라면, Cheese ramyeon, 2,500 won: noodles and green onions topped with a slice of processed cheese. Sounds ill, but the melted cheese helps tone down the heat of the broth.
59. 만두 라면, Mandu ramyeon, 2,500 won: noodles and green onions with meat dumplings.
짬뽕 라면, Jjam bbong ramyeon,
60. 짬뽕 라면, Jjam bbong ramyeon, 2,500 won: Ramyeon served in a pot boasting clams, squid, and a few baby shrimp.
61. 바지락 칼국수, Bagirak kalguksu, 3,500 won: Hand cut thick noodles in an anchovy stock with short neck clams.*
62. 쫄면, jjol myeon, 3,000 won: Thick noodles with mixed with spicy sauce and various veggies like bean sprouts, cucumber, carrots and the like.
63. 스파게티, Supagaeti, 4,000 won: Spaghetti
64. 짜장면, Jjajangmyeon, 2,500 won: Wheat noodles topped with a sweet black bean sauce concealing some veggies, carrots, and meat-ham.
65. 나라우동, Nara Udong, 2,500 won: Thick and slippery wheat noodles in a binto (fish) broth with green onion and tofu skins.
66. 김치우동, Kimchi Udong, 3,000 won: Thick and slippery wheat noodles in a binto broth with a heap of kimchi.*
67. 해물 우동, Haemul Udong, 3,000 won: Thick and slippery wheat noodles in a binto broth with various seafood including clams and prawns, maybe a mussel or two.
68. 물냉면, Mul naengmyeon, 3,500 won: A sipcy soup of chewy buckwheat noodles in a cold broth generally topped with sliced cucumbers and a hard-boiled egg.*
69. 비빔 냉면, Bibim naengmyeon, 3,500 won: Thin white noodles and thinly sliced carrots, cabbage and cucumber in a fiery red sauce.
70. 잔치 국수, Janchi guksu, 3,500 won: Known as banquet noodles, or wheat noodles in an anchovy broth topped with sliced egg, meat, mushrooms and other vegetables. Traditionally served at large banquets.
Bibim guksu in the background, Kongguksu in the foreground.
71. 비빔국수, Bibim guksu, 3,500 won: Wheat noodles mixed with various sliced veggies and meat in a spicy sauce.*
72. 콩국수, Kong guksu, 3,500 won: Thick wheat noodles in a cold soy milk broth usually topped with sliced cucumbers. Usually eaten in summer.

Happy New Year

2011-01-08T07:23:00.000-05:00

Happy New Year from Kimchi & Cornbread!

Things have been hectic here, to say the least. We welcomed our son into the world on Dec. 29, 2010 at 8:31 a.m. in Gwangju.

Finn Burton with our doctor

Finn Burton Altizer
8.1 pounds of adorable goodness!!

Merry Christmas

2010-12-27T02:08:00.000-05:00

Merry Christmas from Kimchi & Cornbread!!

Busy weekend in Gwangju!

2010-12-16T20:52:00.001-05:00

There are a lot of events happening this weekend in Gwangju if you are around! Check out the list below and hope to see you out and about!

Sungbin Bake Sale
What: The holiday season is just around the corner and so is the annual Sungbin Bake Sale. Come out to support the Sungbin Orphanage! Delicious baked goods and books will be for sale downtown at the German Bar December 18th from 12:00-3:00. All profits will be donated to the Sungbin Orphanage.

When: from 12 to 3 p.m. Saturday, Dec. 18th

Where: German Bar, downtown Gwangju
Why: To benefit the Sungbin girls orphanage in Gwangju
Details: To make all this possible, we need your help with donations. We’re asking for any kind of baked goods you can make as well as books. Pleas...e be sure to visit the Sungbin Bake Sale group page to post what you plan on donating (under the discussion tab). If you’re able to donate, you can drop off your baked goodness and books before the sale on Saturday between 10:30-11:30 at the German Bar. For those who can’t make it early on Saturday, we will be accepting donations Friday night (December 17th) somewhere down town (time and location to be announced). For more information please visit the Sungbin Bake Sale group page on facebook or contact Emily Reesor at 010-2316-1963 or emilyreesor@gmail.com.

GIC Art Fair and "Thank You" Day

What: GIC would like to thank to the members who have supported the Center over the last 12 months. Everyone is welcome. Come on down to enjoy music, food, exhibitions and Art Fair! During the Art Fair, there will be a chance to buy artworks of Korean and international artists.

When: 3 to 6 p.m. Saturday, Dec. 18th

Where: Gwangju International Center, downtown Gwangju

Why: To support GIC and all they do in the community

Details: Visit their Facebook page.

Gunsthalle Flea Market
What: Lifestyle magazine Bling and KUNSTHALLE GWANGJU invite you to a night flea market with special items for the Christmas season. Stroll around the booths, look around, chat with the sellers and take your time to choose your favorite items while enjoying drinks and nice music. Sellers range from artists, fashion people to ordinary people – bet you will find your Christmas presents or a special gift for yourself.

When: 5 p.m. Dec. 18th

Where: Kunsthalle Gwangju, downtown (to get there go through underground shopping and follow signs!)
Why: To do your Christmas shopping and be a part of the wonderful Kunsthalle
Details: Learn more by e-mailing estevan@thebling.co.kr or mail@kunsthalle-gwangju.com.

Monthly Korean/foreign Dinner

What: Monthly Korean/foreign dinner in Gwangju
When: 7 p.m., Saturday, Dec. 18th
Where: Meet at Starbucks downtown (the one across from Outback Steakhouse) and then walk together to a nearby restaurant
Why: Because it's always nice to meet new people and enjoy dinner downtown
Details: RSVP on the Facebook page or e-mail lindsay@saykimchirecruiting.com.

Thanks, America.

2010-12-16T04:13:00.003-05:00

Annyong, Lindsay here.

Yesterday, Korea held a nationwide emergency drill. Luckily, a few of us knew about it ahead of time because the Canadian embassy released a statement ahead of time to let their citizens know it was nothing to worry about it. Here is what it said:

"South Korea will hold a nationwide special civil emergency exercise today at 14:00 for 15 minutes. Sirens will sound, transport will be stopped and some people may be asked to take shelter in metro stations or basements. Aircraft may be heard overhead. There is no need to be alarmed."

As an American, I couldn't help but wonder where in the world our embassy was to quell any fears that might arise from a nationwide civil emergency exercise. But, hey, I still hadn't got a notice from the embassy that we should or shouldn't worry about North Korean shelling of a South Korean island in November.

But, alas, today, the U.S. Embassy decided to wake up. Here is what they have to say. Though, please note, they still think it is not their job to let us know about these "regular" exercises. (The one yesterday was reported in the Korea Herald today as the largest since the 1970s.)

The U.S. Embassy in Seoul is transmitting the following information through the Embassy's Warden System as a public service to all U.S. citizens in the Republic of Korea. Please disseminate this message broadly to U.S. citizens.

This warden message is being issued in response to the announcement on December 16, 2010, by the Government of the Republic of Korea that it will “hold a one-day live-fire drill on Yeonpyeong Island between Dec. 18 and 21.” The Embassy does not assess that there has been an increase in the threat environment in South Korea.

Given the increased tensions since the North Korean shelling of Yeonpyeong Island on November 23, 2010, it is understandable that U.S. citizens would be concerned regarding the security situation on the Korean Peninsula. However, the Embassy reminds U.S. citizens in the Republic of Korea that military training exercises are routinely conducted throughout South Korea throughout the year, to include civil defense drills normally held eight (8) times a year. U.S. citizens should stay informed through local media about upcoming military exercises and civil defense drills that sometimes occur at short notice and for which the Embassy will not routinely provide advance notification. The Embassy continues to closely monitor the current situation. Should the security situation change, the Embassy will update this warden message.

U.S. citizens living or traveling in South Korea are reminded of the importance of enrolling with the Embassy through the State Department’s Smart Traveler Enrollment System (STEP) website: https://travelregistration.state.gov/ibrs/ui/ . U.S. citizens without internet access may register in person at the U.S. Embassy. Enrollment is a voluntary way of telling us that you, as a U.S. citizen, are in Korea, whether for a long-term stay or for a short visit. In the event of an emergency, we use enrollment information to communicate with you. This could include a family emergency in which relatives in the United States request that the Embassy contact you.

For the latest security information worldwide, U.S. citizens should regularly monitor the State Department’s website at http://travel.state.gov where the current Worldwide Caution, Travel Warnings, and Travel Alerts can be found. Up-to-date information on security can also be obtained by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll free in the Unites States, or, for callers from outside the United States and Canada, a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444. These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays).

Christmas in Korea

2010-12-14T06:54:00.001-05:00

Christmas in Korea is a lot different from back home.

First of all, it's a lot less commercial. Sure, you can still find signs of the holiday season here and there--especially at coffee shops like Starbucks and large department stores, who deck their walls with all the season's decor. There's even a really large Christmas tree of lights in downtown Gwangju, which can really put you in the holiday spirit.

And in the coffee shops and occasional boutique, you'll even hear Christmas music.

Small sections of the larger supermarkets also have tables of kitschy Christmas decor--fake poinsettias, glittering plastic balls, felt stockings, and three-feet fake Christmas trees.

Christmas can surely be had in Korea--if you're a little creative.

While it remains a lot less commercial than back home, the holiday in Korea is seen as an actual "date day," similar to Valentine's Day where couples spend the day out on the town in matching hoodies and cuddling matching teddy bears. It's pretty cute. But way different than the Christmas experience in the West.

In cities with large expat communities--like our city of Gwangju--there are loads of events and charities to take part in. From a Christmas bake sale to adopting a child for Christmas from the local girls' orphanage to Christmas concerts, there seems to be an event every weekend to get in the spirit of giving and rejoicing.

Me, 36 weeks pregnant, with my homemade Christmas wreath, made from greenery from the mountain behind our apartment and fake poinsettias from HomePlus.

So no matter where you are in the world, there are still many reasons and ways to celebrate!

Merry Christmas!

Plan ahead for your FBI check

2010-12-13T19:57:00.001-05:00

Annyong! Lindsay here!

I feel like this is a popular time of the year for new teachers arriving in Korea and for those who are starting to plan to come to Korea to teach! It's definitely a revolving door with new teachers coming every day.

As a recruiter, I get at least 10 e-mails a day about the new document requirements. And, with a big new requirement for Americans starting Jan. 1, that means lots of changes are already underway.

Starting Jan. 1, Americans must have an FBI background check, with an apostille. In the past, only a state-level background was needed. This was much easier to obtain. FBI checks can take up to 3 months to process, which can definitely delay your departure to Korea!

So don't wait until the last minute to order yours. If you're thinking about coming to Korea, order it now! Read all about how to get your FBI check here. And read about all the required documents for Korea here.

Local celebrities

2010-12-10T00:17:00.004-05:00

Annyong, Lindsay here.

Whit found this in the local paper out of Damyang, a small town 3o minutes outside of Gwangju where he ran a half marathon and I walked a 5K recently. Our little guy made it into the news!!

See the full article here.

▲ 임신8개월의 몸으로 5Km에 도전해 성공한 Lindsay Altizer. 린제이는 번호표에 아기이름 ‘FINN’을 써놓고 함께 뛰었다. 남편 Whitney Altizer는 하프코스 12위를 기록했다. 아래사진은 남편 휘트니.

Translated:

Lindsay Altizer succeded the 5km course with her 8 months pregnancy. She ran with her baby's name 'FINN' on her running shirt number. Her husband Whitney Altizer came in as the 12th. The picture below is her husband Whitney.

And from the article:

또 임신 8개월 만삭의 몸에도 5Km 코스를 완주해 주위를 놀랍게 해 린제이 알티저(Lindsay Altizer)는 달리기를 마친 후에도 힘들어 보이는 기색조차 없어 평소 달리기로 단련된 건강을 자랑했으며 남편 휘트니 알티저(Whitney Altizer) 또한 하프코스를 15위로 입상해 부부간의 건강과 사랑을 과시했다.

Lindsay Altizer didn't look any tired after completing 5km course even though she was 8 months pregnant. She surprised everyone with her running as she's been running and keeping her health in good condition. Her husband Whitney Altizer also completed the half course as the 15th, Lindsay and Whitney showed off their love and healthy life.

Happy Holidays from Lee Min-ho

2010-12-06T04:32:00.000-05:00

I am lucky enough to be "friends" with Lee Min-ho (only the prettiest boy in all of Korea) on Facebook.

Thought I'd pass along this little gem of holiday cheer!

Happy holidays from Korea!

Showered with love (and needles)

2010-12-05T02:08:00.000-05:00

Annyong! Lindsay here on a relaxing Sunday afternoon. This is the first day in a long while that I don't have to-do list (or the corresponding honey-do list). Getting ready for baby has been keeping us working in overdrive.

I just got my weekly pregnancy update e-mail this morning (36 weeks!) and am convinced the baby has dropped (meaning he will make his appearance in the next few weeks.

Yesterday, a few good girl friends hosted a baby shower for me and little Finn. We came up with the idea (thanks to my friend Summer back home in the States) to decorate onesides, which my family sent over with their own decoreated ones.

We didn't have a sewing machine and our scissors were meant for cutting kimchi, but we had a great time sitting around decorating the onesies. From Florida fish fins to a dazzling tuxedo (only to be worn to the opera or to meet chicks says the creator), the onesies are so much fun.

I really hated that my mom, sisters, and all the other wonderful women in my life weren't here to take part, but it was nice to have their contributions mailed here beforehand.

Whit and I feel so blessed to have such wonderful friends and family all over the world. Our little Finn is one lucky little kid.

Paintings I crafted for Finn's room. These have animal sounds written in Korean. I love how animals make different sounds in different languages!

Finished products!

A onesie sent from Tony and Caroline in Canada.

Suzanne made these awesome hats for father and son.

We decorated the onesies with old clothes.

Guests are starting to wonder if they accidentally happened upon a labor camp.

Love this! Cassie, the creator, says this can only be worn to the opera or to meet girls.

Crossing the finish

2010-12-01T01:35:00.000-05:00

Annyong, Lindsay here.

We spent the weekend with the growing Gwangju Running Club (yet again). This club has been Whit's baby and it's grown so much since the spring when about four of us met once a week for a run.

This weekend a group of runners headed down to Goheung, a small town in the southern part of Jeolla province. It's also the home of Korea's space program, or at least where they shoot off the rockets, interestingly enough.

While there was a 5K option, I opted out and decided to just cheer on the others who were participating. Whit was running his first full marathon (in Korea, anyway). He did amazing, as always. I love to cheer him on. And I love even more seeing other people finish races for the first time. It's such a neat experience. I guess I remember how it feels to cross the finish line for the first time, to do something you never thought possible. What a remarkable feeling.

The most dangerous place on Earth

2010-11-28T19:11:00.001-05:00

Whit and I were sitting comfortably in our Gwangju apartment the other evening, just eating our kimchi jjigae for dinner and watching NBC Nightly News from back home. It's become a tradition for us to watch the news as we eat. We both love to catch up on the world and on America.

But we were quite surprised to hear them call Korea "the most dangerous place on Earth". We laughed to ourselves--just typical media overreaction to produce a good news story. (Believe I know how this works, I used to be a reporter myself).

In light of recent events, the Korean peninsula has become unsteady. I'm not saying it's not. But I certainly don't walk out the front door and think...oh, maybe I should bring a gas mask in case North Korea decides to nuke us today. It's just not like that.

While going through some old photos last night, I came across some of my favorite photos that I took of my students at our former school. Whit and I went through the photos, laughing about each student, their nickname, and how purely innocent and fun kids are around the world. No matter what's in the news, or how the media portrays and expands a situation, it's nice to know that people are just people and home is just home, wherever you call home in this world.

Here's a look at my Korea.

Thank you for Thanksgiving

2010-11-27T03:22:00.001-05:00

We celebrated Thanksgiving here in Korea last weekend with a group of friends. Everyone came over, dressed up, and brought the best of their home-cooked recipes.

We had everything from a slow-cooked turkey (delicious! and available through special order at the local foreign grocery store, though not cheap); sweet potatoes; garlic mashed potatoes; apple sauce; salads; chocolate-covered pretzels, cheese cake; and homemade pumpkin pies.

It was nice to share Thanksgiving with non-Americans as well. It was our Irish friend Finbarr's first Thanksgiving--who we convinced that an integral part of the holiday was the "traditional" slow clap--something started when everyone started saying what they were thankful for as we went around the table.

No matter what corner of the world you hail from, it's so wonderful to come together around a cozy table and just simply share thanks.

We toasted to the engagement of Chris and Lucy!!

What's Thanksgiving without a little American football?

33 weeks

2010-11-16T21:44:00.000-05:00

Run, Gwangju, Run!

2010-11-16T07:17:00.000-05:00

The Gwangju Running Club

It was a marathon weekend in Gwangju for those of us in the local running club.

Whit, bless his soul and his organized spreadsheets that I like to poke fun at, organized a huge team event for the Gwangju Running Club, a group he started earlier this year.

It was for a local half marathon and 5K in nearby Damyang, a small town about 30 minutes outside of Gwangju that is famous for its lovely bamboo forest and even lovelier metasequoia (dawn redwood tree) road.

He came up with the idea to sign a bunch of expats up for it earlier in the summer. And in the end, more than 30 of us took a bus out there together to run the race and have a large picnic lunch there afterwards.

For many people, the race was their first half marathon or first 5K, and it was so much fun to see the excitement (and yes, tears!) on the faces of those runners when they crossed their first finish line. It made me remember why I love running so much.

Of course, I don't need a reminder of this. I haven't ran in a couple months now, and I can't explain how much I miss it. But I did WALK my first 5K and, despite feeling a little silly at the start, had a great time.

I carried my camera along the way (why not?) and took pictures of those on the course---luckily, the stars (or redwoods I should say) aligned and I was able to catch all the 5K runners along the beautiful redwood-lined road in the peak of fall color here in Korea.

Also, I would be remiss (I have always wanted to use that phrase!) if I didn't mention that Whit and his two good running buddies ran ANOTHER half marathon on Saturday, where Whit bested his personal record for an amazing time of 1:21.

Fighting, Gwangju Running Club!!!

The race on Saturday in Suncheon.

Justin, Dan, and Whit pose after they all finish sub-1:30!

The Damyang half marathon and 5K with the Gwangju Running Club!

Rocking the Movember mustaches!! Love it.

Get ready!

Get set!

This little mom pushed her son on his bike the whole 5K. And, yes, they beat me.

I can't help but think this looks like a beer gut.


We celebrated Marie's birthday (from the Mokpo Running Club!)

Gyeongju--Korea's museum without walls

2010-11-10T08:09:00.000-05:00

If there is one place that you should not miss visiting while in Korea, it's Gyeongju. This thousands-year-old town is awesome.

It's home to huge mounds where kings were once buried (in the center of town); old Buddhist temples hidden in the beautiful mountains; and an old granite carving of a giant Buddha that dates back to 750. Seriously, this place is old.

In a country where Japan pretty much wiped out anything old, it's nice to see a few things that survived. (Though, of course, not all of it did---much has been rebuilt after the occupation).

Whit and I headed there this weekend on our first road trip in our own car! It was awesome. It was definitely interesting to drive the two-lane road up and down the mountains to get there. We got a different perspective that we normally would have missed as we snored the four hours away to get there on a bus.

But Gyeongju is also a great place to go to without a car----because you can rent both bikes and scooters just outside the bus terminal and zip and pedal all over this ancient city. And, honestly, there is no prettier town in Korea. Even the gas stations have the traditional tiled roofs.

Anyway, enough jibber-jabber. Here are a few pics from our mini-vacation---we think our last before the baby comes!! (Wow. Life is about to change.)

Love the halmoni carrying her little one in the traditional Korean way.

Green space! Wonderful!

We decorated a tile from the temple for our son.

Say Kimchi!

2010-10-24T08:10:00.001-04:00

It's kimchi festival time in Gwangju!

While Korea might be facing a cabbage shortage, it was not evident at Gwangju's colorful Kimchi Festival.

We headed out on Saturday for a couple hours, made some kimchi and just strolled under some beautiful fall foliage.

Get out there while you still can. The festival runs through Wednesday!

Kids dancing with the giant gochu (red pepper)

Say Kimchi recuits living it up at the kimchi fest!

Another Say Kimchi recruit making kimchi

Love this photo. Ajumma love.

Weekend life

2010-10-18T09:24:00.000-04:00

Weekends are sacred in Korea.Those two days never last long enough. Before you know it, you're pressing snooze for the 15th time on Monday morning if you blink too long.

This weekend Whit and I just hung around our apartment (plus one Saturday night date to see Eat Pray Love (looooved it) and eat some galbi.

Whit recently bought a guitar here in Gwangju and I think I have been benefiting most from it. Our little en utero one seems to dance every time he plays.

Our awesome new ficus tree. Love it. And the 80-year-old man who carried delivered to our apartment. (we thought he might have a heart attack!)

Home sweet home (we're on the 12th floor)

Koreans are forever drying out strange foods in the parking lot.

A walk around the dong (neighborhood)

Nothing says autumn better than fall flowers.

A Korean home stopped in time.

Pregnancy in Korea

2010-10-12T22:44:00.000-04:00

Annyong, Lindsay here!

Just came in from my morning hike along the mountain--literally located directly behind our apartment building. That is one of the many wonderful things about Korea, the mountains. And one of the many reasons we love our apartment so much (despite the mogi war we continue to fight!)

As I'm now in my third trimester of pregnancy and am carrying a medium-sized bowling ball beneath my shirt, it is no secret that I am pregnant. I am no longer running, which I miss incredibly. But I have taken to uphill walks and hikes along this mountain in the backyard. And I know this break from running will be good in the long-term. Come 2011, I will be a regular Forrest Gump around these parts. Can't wait!

But back to my hiking. It's funny the response I have gotten from Koreans. Traditionally, they believe exercise, running, or anything strenuous is bad for the baby and could cause miscarriage. But, being the active person I am, I am not about to sit around and let my bowling ball become one of those even larger exercise balls.

While only the women respond (men simply ignore me, per my liking), there are a few who gasp and whisper to their lady walking friends. But these are few and far between, actually. The majority of the ajumma (older women in Korea) smile, cheer me on, pat my shoulder, and shout a loud hello every morning when we see each other. This morning was no different. Most of the morning walkers were gathered together, huddling around a picnic of roasted chestnuts and steaming tea in an exercise pavaillion and in no time at all had called me over. With a warm hello they grabbed handfuls of chestnuts and thrust them out to me

Here are a few other perks I've enjoyed while being pregnant in Korea:

I always get a seat on the bus! I take two buses every day to and from work. Sometimes, it's standing room only. But one look at me and my bowling ball and I am promptly pulled to a seat, given up usually by an older woman who has been there.
Government perks. Since I'm pregnant in a country with one of the lowest birth rates in the world, I get some nice benefits. As part of the national insurance plan, every pregnant woman in the insurance system gets a "beautiful mom" card, issued by a local bank, which pays the majority of my doctor visits. I would tell you how much I've paid so far on doctor visits but it would literally make you American moms sick.
All the excitement, none of the hype. When I first told my OBGYN back in the states that I was planning on getting pregnant in Korea, she was the first to cheer me on. "People have been having babies for even longer in Korea," she was quick to say. "And you won't have to deal with all the hype." This was so true. It's all of the necessities here, none of the silly stuff. My doctor is as practical as they come, and rarely gives me any direction or instructions. Common sense, he says. And lots of kimchi, of course, will always be healthy for you and baby. Last week at our doctor visit, we asked what we should pack for the hospital when the time comes. Our doctor looked at us like he had never heard the question before. "Ummm, baby clothes?" he responded.

Vote for Kimchi & Cornbread

2010-10-03T22:19:00.000-04:00

Hello dear readers!
We are currently listed as one of Go Abroad's top blogs on Korea. And now they are holding a voting contest (popularity contest) to see which blog is the best of the best.
We know all these blogs are great, but we'd love to move up in the standings a bit!

Vote for us here: http://www.gooverseas.com/korean-blogs.

Thanks!

Chuseok travels

2010-09-27T22:44:00.000-04:00

Annyong, Lindsay here.

Last week was Chuseok, and one of those years where the holiday neatly fell in the middle of the week to give us optimum time off work.

My best friend Brittany came for her first Korean visit to spend the week with us. It was great fun, and always nice to see Korea through the eyes of a newbie again.

"What's that smell?" "Why is my taxi driver wearing only one glove?" "You mean I have to be aggressive if I actually want to get on the bus/subway?"

It's always fun to see Korea through new eyes again. It seems in three years we have completely adopted to a Korean way of life. We forgot that Korea even has strange smells and that everyone in the world doesn't deal with a perpetual lack of toilet paper or what to do to avoid getting the hem of your pants dirty while using an Asian squatty potty.

My friend and I are both pregnant, so it was double the fun as we traveled around Korea and had one adventure after another.

Here are a few pictures of the week.

Best city and people in Korea

2010-09-19T06:40:00.001-04:00

It's no secret that we think we live in the best city in Korea--Gwangju.

This was proven yet again last night when we attended a benefit concert for Michael Simning, a stalwart of the expat community scene here in Gwangju. As was said last night, this city and foreign community wouldn't be what it is today without him.

Over the past decade (plus), he's been involved in and created more outlets for expats in Gwangju than one would even think possible. Because of him, we have a blog about our city (sponsored by the city); an amazing foreign radio station; a wonderful foreign restaurant; a much-needed foreign grocery store; and a girls orphanage that has become the mainstay volunteer opportunity for expats in Korea (ha! he did not create the orphans--just helped it become a volunteer opportunity).

I know we've said a lot about Michael in the past, but it's true...this guy has made Gwangju what it is for all us expats. And now, the community is stepping up to help him in his time of need. Three weeks ago, he was diagnosed with leukemia. He has just finished his first round of chemo. But he has a looooong road ahead.

To help with the mountain of expenses that surely awaits him, the community got together last night for a concert fundraiser. Here are a few pics.

And if you're in Gwangju (live here or just visiting), you can help out just by patronizing one of his two businesses--The First Alleyway (foreign restaurant) or the Underground Grocer (see links above for details).

Sunday sights

2010-09-14T09:46:00.000-04:00

I used to not leave the house without my camera dangling off my shoulder. But somehow, tragically, I've gotten out of the habit. (Has Korea's newness worn off?!)

But, I have recently realized this abomination and took my camera to the Gwangju Running Club's weekly run on Sunday night. Since I do more walking than running these days, I figured it would be a great chance to take pictures as I walk around the city. (I feel like I've walked to practically every corner of this town recently...so if you see a big white pregnant lady waddling around, make sure to say hello.)

Here is a little slice of Sunday night's great weather and active community.

The Michael Simning Benefit Concert

2010-09-14T03:24:00.002-04:00

Come out this Saturday and help support one of the pillars of the Gwangju community, Michael Simning. In case you haven't heard, Mike is battling leukemia and getting chemo at a hospital in Hwasun. This concert is the community's chance to help out a guy that has been endlessly helpful to us. Make a contribution to help Mike and his family get through this tough time and enjoy some music and everyone's favorite MC and GFN DJ, Pete Ross. See the details on the poster designed by a good friend of Mike's and a former Gwangju resident, Hovig Papazian.

Need more info? Click here.http://gwangjublog.com/775

A Plea for Peace, Love and Understanding

2010-09-13T04:02:00.001-04:00

There isn't a day that goes by that I am not reminded that I am foreign. Koreans tactlessly stare, giggle and point at me. But these are the Koreans who have no experience with foreigners. I am what they hear about from other people or what they see on TV. On good encounters they respond to me like a movie star, on bad they look at me like one would Bigfoot or the guy that murdered their father. One time in a small country town, an old woman literally leapt off the ground and slapped her friend so she could take a look.

Jama Masjid, Delhi, India(name means'World-reflecting Mosque')

It is a bit scary what Koreans learn in school. They learned in school textbooks that Englishmen are gentlemen. A poster in my old school had an African wearing a loincloth and holding a spear. I have heard from students that Southeast Asians are poor and dirty and that the Japanese are evil. In this cut-off country, you can find one generalization after the other.

I use to think that only Koreans could brush a broad stroke over a whole nationality or religion given their cut-off society. Unfortunately I was wrong. But it was still a surprise to find out that a majority of Americans oppose the ~~"Ground Zero Mosque"~~ Muslim Community Center in Manhattan. I thought our history, schools and leaders would have taught us better than that. Instead we continue to fear the unknown, fail to ask questions and have leaders who don't show a backbone because they are too worried about getting reelected.

Jama Masjid, Delhi, India

The only way I can relate is by imagining a Korea where our International Centers met opposition for the occasional stupid acts(and there are some: see belligerent foreign drunks) by foreigners. About a million people punished because of the stupid few. To me, this is just like Americans rounding Muslims up to their most extreme. Maybe the only way to understand the lunacy in doing this is traveling outside of your bubble and being the minority somewhere. Not everyone looks at white American Christians as harmlessly as your neighbor down the street.

Remember nineteen Muslims took down the World Trade Towers out of 1.6 billion followers. Islam didn't take those Towers down. If you read the Quran and try to understand Islam you'll find that your spiritual beliefs aren't so different. But above all put peace, love and understanding to the forefront of your mind, then maybe you'll find that despite all of our differences we are all just people living out our short time on Earth.

Or as Lindsay put it in a note to our son: "Just remember, extremists should never define a people, a nation nor a religion. Whether you are a Christian or Muslim or Buddhist or Jewish; white, black or green; American; Canadian or Korean; you should always just practice love and respect. Plain and simple."

B- Blood needed in Gwangju

2010-08-30T04:22:00.001-04:00

One of our most famous ex-pats and one of the really good guys of Gwangju was recently diagnosed with leukemia. Michael Simning was once an English teacher and part owner of the famous Speakeasy in town. Now Mike is a DJ on the Gwangju radio station, GFN, as a host of City of Light; owner of The First Alleyway (that does a damn good huevos rancheros by the way) and owner of The Underground Grocer, a foreign grocery store for homesick foreigners(bless your tortillas and Honey Nut Cheerios).

In addition to being a husband and father, Mike also plays an active role in a girls' orphanage in town and does an excellent job of welcoming every new foreigner to Gwangju. He was one of the first people Lindsay and I met in town and somehow he made both of us breathe a little easier when we were wondering what we had gotten ourselves into. He is the kind of guy that remembers meeting you and on the second meeting makes you feel like an old friend.

Now Mike needs our help and we are having trouble giving him the help he needs. Mike's blood type is B- which is super rare and he needs blood transfusions as part of his treatment. If you don't know your blood type and you are in Korea, take your alien card to a local clinic and get tested. You could be a major help to someone who has always been very helpful to others.

Another ex-pat, Hughie Samson, sent this letter out the other day.

A few days ago Michael Simning - an expat in Gwangju - visited the hospital because he wasn't feeling very well.

He discovered that he has leukemia, was admitted into the hospital immediately, and has started to undergo chemotherapy treatments.

As part of his treatment Michael needs to receive several blood transfusions.

Michael's blood type is B-, which is very rare, and so he, his family, and his friends are trying to find people in Korea who can donate blood to him immediately as well as periodically throughout the next couple of weeks. (O- blood won’t work in this case.)

If your blood type is B-, and you are able and willing to donate, please consider contacting Tim Whitman at 011.9600.6378 or tugrocers@gmail.com. Tim will pass your name and phone number along to Michael and his family.

You can also help by passing this message along to friends of yours here in Korea too.

Many people -- unfortunately -- don't know their blood type. You can find out yours -- and at the same time find out if you can help Michael -- by visiting a hospital in your area.

The procedure is relatively painless and should only take a few minutes.

In case you’re worried about communicating with the staff, you can print out and show them the following information, which explains to them why you’re there and why you need this information:

친구가 백혈병에 걸려서 도움이 필요합니다.

제 친구는 Rh-B 형 입니다.

제 혈액형 검사받고 하고 싶습니다. Rh-/Rh+ 인지까지 정확히 검사 받고싶습니다.

Once you find out your blood type, and if it is B-, you can do the same as those who already know theirs: contact Tim Whitman at 011.9600.6378 or tugrocers@gmail.com.

In the meantime Michael’s immune system is very weak so he isn’t able to receive any visitors. He is able to communicate using the internet and telephone, however, and many friends have been wishing him well using Facebook.

And as a side note from me, a friend: Mike’s sickness and rehabilitation may cause a lot of financial strain to him and his wife and daughter, so if you are in Gwangju, please consider supporting him in a very direct manner by shopping at the Underground Grocers and by eating at the First Alleyway, both of which will remain open in his absence.

Underground Grocers is open on Wednesday from 11 to 7, on Thursday and Friday from 1 to 7, and on Saturday and Sunday from 12 to 7; the First Alleway is open Wednesday to Saturday from 5 to 10ish and on Sunday from 11 to 5 for an all day breakfast.

Thank you,

On behalf of Mike,

Hughie Samson

Running in Korea

2010-08-29T21:11:00.002-04:00

One of the best things I have done in a while was start the Gwangju Running Club. I had been seeing people all around town running and I was in desperate need of a running buddy. Little did I know that great weekend runs and good people would help me fall back in love with running. We have really been having a good time.

Gwangju Running Club after a Sunday evening run

From the Sunday runs I gained two regular running buddies in Jon and Justin. After a month or so, Jon left for the US, and another running buddy appeared in Dan. Luckily, we all live within a mile of each other and we have been keeping up with what Jon, Justin and I started and meeting up at 6:30AM for runs with even a morning of speed work. We have become runner geeks talking about running articles read, ways to prevent chaffing and how we love that we found each other. It's enough to make a non-runner puke.

In the last 24 hours I have been reminded how different running in Korea can be. For one, it is rare to be the only one out exercising. Koreans take to the sidewalks and trails at almost all times of day. The biggest crowds are out in the morning and in the evening as late as 10 or 11. There are families, adults out running, men decked out in biking gear on their mountain bikes and couples strolling in the many parks around Gwangju.

Jon, Justin and I join the Eudeung Running Club for a half marathon

These people also offer words of encouragement to us bearded, shirtless runners. This morning a bus driver hung out of his window with a cigarette hanging from his mouth and and yelled 화이팅 (Hwaiting!), which means "Fighting" or "Go!" About half a mile down the road this same bus driver had pulled over and repeated the words of encouragement along with a "Good morning!" This happens every day I run. Last night at a Gwangju Running Club meeting I was running with 5 other guys in a pack and a car pulled up beside us yelling "Hwaiting!" and saying things like "Your body is good!" "Six pack" all the while snapping photos of us, and this was a car of Korean teenage guys.

Usually Koreans smile and offer words of encouragement, but there are moments where they stare curiously and suspiciously at you and even demand you put a shirt on. Going shirtless is okay, but extremely rare in Korea and some older Korean men will not appreciate the partial nudity. This summer is the first time I have dared gone shirtless on my runs. I don't think it is disrespectful, but you might feel uncomfortable with the stares and giggles.

Korea also offers a unique landscape. This morning we made our way up to a Buddhist temple that sits, like most Korean Buddhist temples, high above the city. During the Japanese occupation many temples were pushed out of the cities and the monks took them up into the mountains. These trails or roads are dangerously steep and usually extremely beautiful. This road curves up through overhanging trees and next to a stream that offers a cool breeze on even a hot and humid day. We pushed up the rain soaked road and made it to the temple where monks were busily getting ready this cloudy but beautiful Monday morning. Clouds sat in the green hills surrounding the temple. After circling the Buddha statue in the temple and taking a few swigs of water we made our way back down into town through the throngs of Korean children on their way to school at 7:15AM.

Before I moved to Korea I was certain that my running would suffer in this crowded and urban country. But there is always a trail or sidewalk to run that comes complete with your own cheering section. Come join the Gwangju Running Club. We have all speeds and several running options. After about an hour we meet back and all have dinner together. It makes Sunday evenings much better than sitting around dreading Monday. If you are in Korea come join us for a run. If Gwangju is too far then I suggest forming a group of your own. Either way get out and run!

Rest in Peace, Mr. Kweon

2010-08-22T05:15:00.000-04:00

Annyong, Lindsay here.

We had some sad news here on Friday when we found out our dear friend Lucy lost her father very suddenly to a heart attack. She and her boyfriend, Chris, immediately drove to her small Korean hometown two hours away to stand vigil for more than 24 hours.

We followed suit on Friday to support Lucy. It was our first funeral in Korea and we weren't sure what was expected of us. But we did a little research and talked to some of our other Korean friends and learned a little about it before we left.

Hopefully you readers will never have to go to a funeral in Korea. But, if you do, here is what we learned:

Wear black. Just like back home, it is most respectful to wear dark colors. My friend Lucy wore blank hanbok (Korean traditional dress).
Give money as a gift. Normally, people give W50,000 ($50) per person as a gift to the family. There is a large box in the mourning room where you will put your money envelope in, with your name on it. This money helps pay the funeral costs.
There is a round-the-clock visitation ceremony for the first 24 hours. This is in a small room where there is a photo of the deceased. The family, or at least the sons of the family, stands vigil here for every person who comes to pay their respects.
In this room, as a visitor, you walk in, put your money envelope in the box, and then step up to the mat in front of the photo. Take off your shoes before stepping on the mat. One person in your visiting party then steps up to a table where there is food, incense, and soju (Korean alcohol). One person lights a stick of the incense and fills a cup with the soju and then waves the cup in a circular motion three times. Then, this person steps back with the rest of the party and bows two very deep bows to the photo of the deceased. (Start the bow by standing up, then lowering yourself to your knees, then bowing with hands stretched out on the floor in front of you. Hold here for a few moments before standing up all the way. Then bow one more time, the same way.)
After bowing twice to the deceased, turn to the oldest brother (or family member standing closest to the photo), and repeat the bow one more time. (Only once to the family.)
After this short, formal homage to the deceased, you can collect your shoes and walk out to a group eating area, where you can drink soju, beer, and share in the abundance of food as you celebrate the life of the deceased or comfort the family.

Other interesting points:

Superstition has it that pregnant women should not attend funerals in Korea. I had heard this before we left so I checked with Lucy to make sure it would not offend her family in any way that I attend. It did not. It's more of a superstition that it will be unhealthy for the baby, especially late in the pregnancy. (Our little one has continued to kick during and after the funeral to let us know he's doing just fine. :) )
Koreans do not say, 'I'm sorry for your loss." Once, I said this to a woman who told us her parents had died earlier in her life. She stared at me blankly, confused. In passing consveration, if they did not just die, it's common to say, "Ahhh, how could it happen?" ( 어떻게?!?). But in a formal setting, one Korean friend said I could say, "고인의 명복의 빕니다". 명복(Myeongbok) is the luck when you arrive at the world for the dead. We believe the more 명복 in that world, the better. So you wish that her father would get lots of 명복 in the next world.

고인의 명복의 빕니다, Mr. Kweon.

Home sweet home

2010-08-17T06:38:00.001-04:00

Annyong!
Lindsay here. Sorry we've been slow to blog the past couple weeks. But we've definitely stayed busy while we made the transition to our new home.
I know a lot of you back home were worried about a pregnant chick and her baby daddy living in one of Korea's infamous "love motels," but we survived just fine. (Even fell a little in love with the motel proprietors and maids and left them with a huge box of fresh Korean grapes).
But now we are in our own home. And when I mean home, it's like a real house. It's the first time we've lived with so many extravagances in Korea: a bath tub! A dishwasher! An oven! Extra bedrooms and bathrooms! And the biggest thing, literally, space!!!
We really lucked out in this amazing new home. And we hope all of you back home will come to visit us some time. There is a bed waiting.

Don't worry, Mom. I didn't drink the wine (even though I wanted to!). It was for some guests we had over!

The view from our kitchen!!

Asia and Korea Traveling Tips

2010-08-17T04:30:00.000-04:00

It is amazing that Lindsay and I have made it to and from every place we have planned on traveling to in Asia. There were a few times where we almost missed a flight, forgot proper documentation and just couldn't access any of our money. It could happen to anyone who hasn't traveled in Asia before. Traveling here can bring up some roadblocks you haven't thought about.

If you want to minimize your stress while traveling in Asia and Korea take a look at some of these tips.

1. Buy bus tickets to Incheon in advance-- Traveling when school is out in Korea can make life difficult. Don't assume that you can hop on a bus whenever you please, especially to the international airport in Incheon. Once we were flying to China and arrived at Gwangju Bus terminal just in time to hop on the next bus and get to Incheon for our flight, only to find the next bus wasn't until the hour that we would be flying out! Luckily we could get on a bus to Seoul and take a bus to Incheon just in time for our flight. No matter what time you need to be on a bus to Incheon buy it one day in advance at the bus terminal.

2. Always carry your alien card--It may sound obvious(since immigration stresses this point) but people always forget to bring it. Like Lindsay and me. We almost didn't make in to Jeju because the coast guard requires you have your card. On the way off the island we again caught flack for not having it. Just carry it. Whereever you go, especially when you are leaving the mainland. It might be required to get where you are going.

3. Don't carry won outside of the country-- We took a wad of won to Vietnam for backup purposes when we ran out of dong. When we ran out of dong and took the won to the bank to change it over the banker looked at it like it was Monopoly money. Instead carry an ATM card that can be used internationally. Not all Korean ATM cards can be used abroad. We take our Bank of America cards and use them at ATMs wherever we go. If there isn't time to transfer money home take more of the country's currency you are going to or transfer your won to US dollars in Korea.

4. Carry a credit card-- I know, I know. You don't have and don't want a credit card, but it might bail you out when you least expect it. Western Unions are in some of the most remote towns in Asia and you can wire money from your card in case of an emergency of if you forgot you debit card. Also, if you have a health issue you haven't budgeted for a credit card can help get you treatment. In some places in Asia you must pay before you receive any treatment in a hospital, before each procedure. A credit card handy just might save your life.

5. Respect the culture its rules-- I don't care how stupid you think something is, do your best to respect it. Don't be outwardly disrespectful. Making a disgusted face at a local dish, talking loud in a mosque or wearing your shoes into a restaurant are enough to make people feel like "All people from *your country here* are douchebags!" Try to leave a good impression on the people.

6. Carry TP and learn to squat-- In some countries you are out of luck if you need to use the toilet and need TP. Many Asian countries don't use it or expect you to have your own. In some cases you should throw your toilet paper away in a trashcan, don't flush it. You could end up overflowing someone's toilet. Also many Asian toilets are just a hole in the ground. Learn to squat like a baseball catcher. I must admit that I have come to prefer these toilets.

7. Be a responsible tourist-- If you want to give money to the locals try to do it in a more responsible way than just giving it to locals. There are organizations that use donations responsibly. Giving money to beggars just promotes begging. If you think it is sad to see children in the streets begging it is because it is a lucrative business. Maybe not giving in and giving to beggars will get these kids off the streets quicker. Give your money to an organization with a good reputation for helping poor locals.

8. Don't be more of a target than you already are-- In some countries, like India, if you are foreign you might as well have a target drawn on your forehead. Try not to look lost and do what you can to not pull your Lonely Planet out of your bag. Consider doing your research before heading out or tearing pages from your guidebook. It might help prevent some hassle from those after your money!

Day in the Life of a Summer School Teacher

2010-08-01T00:41:00.000-04:00

My Classrooms: A Play

Act I
Scene 1

Student- Teacher! Come on!

Whit teacher- Come here!

S- Teacher! Come here!

W.T.- Okay..Do you need help, Yoon Min?

S- (Yoon Min grabs Whit Teachers beard and pulls)- Teacher dirty.

The scene- Eight 8 yr old students in brightly-colored summer clothes. Some are in their seats, some not. The student next to Yoon Min, the pig-tailed and chubby Ahn Woo, laughs almost to the point of hyperventilating at Yoon Min's beard-pulling, revealing two missing front teeth. Ahn Woo files the act in her brain to use on the teacher several times over. Behind the teacher Kyu Seok tiptoes toward the board in a secret mission to chalk another unearned point to his teams score. But the teacher sees all movements and minus' a point from Team B for the attempt. Team B groans and makes swiping motions toward Kyu Seok for his failed mission. Kyu Seok sinks in his seat in shame. As the teacher continues to help the students with their vocabulary exercise he feels the strange but familiar feeling of tiny fingers being rammed up his rectum. Team B's Na Seol has landed a perfect and well-executed "dong chim" sending the foreign teacher nearly a foot into the air. The class erupts with laughter. The scene repeats itself.

Act II
Scene 2

The scene-The teacher arrives with kimchi stains and stray black marker marks on his pants revealing an active morning with 8 year old students. He breathes a sigh of relief as he sees the calm and seated students at their desks. The students range from 18 to 66. Some are shy, most are fluent, all are kind and none will attempt a "dong chim" tonight or comment on the teacher's beard. But with good Korean humor they will enjoy teasing their teacher.

After a discussion about countries and nationalities.

Student 1- What do you tell people your nationality is if you are from the United States?

Whit teacher- American.

Student 1- But what about Canada and Mexico? They are in North America, but they are Canadian and Mexican. Why are you American?

Whit teacher- (Teacher sighs almost wishing he only had to react to a "dong chim" at this point) Well, I am not sure why, but I guess it goes back to a moment in our history.

Student 2- Huh, you should know! (The class laughs)

This my life these hot summer days, but please don't misinterpret the tone. Teaching children in the morning and adults in the evening, after a semester of teaching only college students, has actually been quite challenging and endlessly entertaining. As most foreign teachers know it pays to be well-prepared for your audience.

Here are some tips I have found useful in keeping the beard-pulling to a minimum.

For the Kids
1. Turn everything into a game. Foreign teachers have to make the classroom fun for young students. It is super effective in getting them to practice English in a fun and carefree environment. Often, out of desperation for fun and a restless class, I make up games on the spot with whatever resources I am using. Try to think like a kid. Remember those days where all you had was a pencil and an eraser, but in your mind they were a fighter jet and an aircraft carrier? Go with it. It also helps to google "ESL Games" before class. There are endless supplies of games.

2. Check out Mes-English. My on-line Bible these days is Mes-English. It is a free site with flashcards, worksheets, coloring sheets, songs and many other resources that you could use over several class periods. There are few important words that this site doesn't cover. For example, I have a theme everyday and print out a set of flashcards that relate to that theme. The first hour we learn the flashcards and learn how to spell each word. The second hour we play games with the flashcards. Either I call out a word and they rush to be the first team to tape it to the board, or I have them race to put the cards in a specific order. It's simple and the kids love it.

3. Institute a point system. Korean children absolutely love competition. The prize doesn't matter so much as the winning. Threatening to take a point away can get your students in their seat in a flash. A point given almost always results in high-fives and cheers. I am serious, they LOVE it. You can giveth or taketh away points depending on your rules, they will follow.

For the Adults
1. Debate. This depends on their level, but my upper-level students seem to enjoy this exercise. For homework, they are to prepare themselves for an informal debate on a topic such as, "Love is more important than money." These topics sometimes just elicit opinions, but as the students get more comfortable with each other they are starting to actually disagree openly with each other. Not only is it good for them but I have found it very fascinating as an observer.

2. Call on your students. Some people may debate this point, but I have found that calling on your students randomly applies just enough pressure on them to be prepared. I feel that my students come prepared to be called on because they don't know when it might be their turn.

3. Give homework and have free talk time. One student actually told me that she like the pressure of homework (either written or preparing for a speech or debate) and then having a casual conversation at the beginning or end of class. One friend recommended discussing the latest entertainment news if the class is predominantly women.

Wanted: Aquatics director; Location: Korea

2010-07-27T02:31:00.003-04:00

Annyong!
Lindsay here. We are now in the middle of the hottest part of summer in Korea and nothing feels better than getting in some water.

I've recently had a craving to get back into swimming (the most wonderful exercise in the world for pregnant women!). And despite my first attempt two years ago in Korea when I was led through group exercises in my Speedo on the side of the pool, I decided I would give it another go.

In Korea, you must always have the gear for the activity. For swimming, that includes a proper swimsuit, goggles and a swim cap. After I headed to the nearest swim store, I was ready!

But, swimming in Korea can be quite the nightmare for a former lifeguard and lifelong swimmer. I spent my younger years around the swimming pool. I lifeguarded every summer of my teenage years and then lifeguarded again for the four years I was in college.

So, suffice to say, I have certain standards I want met. And a whole slew of vocabulary that we lifeguards made up to describe our pool denizens.

Well, old Turner Center lifeguards, would you ever have a time with these swimmers.

At Ole Miss, we had what we called the "bathtubbers": those adoring couples who spent date night at the pool, clinging to each other in the shallow end. We as lifeguards had our own unspoken rule: If you can do it in your bathtub at home, don't do it in the pool.

We also had the wallowers: the rather large pool denizens who came to swing their arms and legs in an attempt to shed some poundage.

But in Korea, darling Korea, there is a whole new set of pool-goers. Here is my list:

The bunny hoppers: these old women come by the busload to every pool in Korea. And they are always there. They are there when you arrive and still there when you leave. They spend their hours at the pool bunny hopping up and down their lane. When I say "their" lane, I don't mean just one lane. Because these women are ajummas. And ajummas (old married women) in Korea do what they damn well please. There are at least 4 bunny hoppers in EVERY lane of the pool. Please swim around them.
The floaters: These men, women, and young ladies have simply not learned how to swim. But someone has told them that floating back and forth will suffice. They will push off the wall right in front of you, and then stop in mid-float for the remainder of the lap. It can take an hour to get from one side to another. Floaters tend also to not care what the normal speed of their lane is.
The wall clingers: This is EVERY swimmer in Korea. It must be a de facto law that every time you swim a lap in Korea, you MUST stop at the wall for 5-10 minutes to breathe, stretch, or just stare at the other people when they come to the wall. Wall clingers do not move if you need some wall space. You must be aggressive!
The drowning butterflies: Ahhh, my favorite. Whoever is responsible for teaching Koreans the butterfly when they barely know how to float should be sent to live in North Korea. These butterfly strokers thunder up and down the middle of the lane, arms smacking the water (and every other swimmers' head) as they make their way up and down the lane in a fashion that looks something akin to a hippo trying to run in water. The drowning butterflies can be lethal! Be prepared to give them a wide berth.
The lane rope loungers: These are the children who are taking lessons at all times of the day in the summertime. No matter what time you go, you cannot avoid the mass swimming lessons, which seem to take place in any lane, any time of the day. These children, all cutely adorned with swim caps and goggles and kickboards and flippers, can be seen staring at you from underwater, as they cling to and lay on their lane rope. These children are mostly harmless and can be easily scared. (See: Drowning butterflies).

All humor set aside, swimming in Korea is quite the experience. I concentrate on being the calm in the storm. And usually I even make it 40-45 minutes without wanting to punch somebody.

And some days, when you just can't swim a lap without being kicked, smacked or nearly drowned, remember when you can't beat 'em, just join 'em.

A light in the attic, and one in the womb

2010-07-20T07:07:00.001-04:00

Annyong! Lindsay here.

We have a lot to write about these days. First of all, we've living in a motel for a month or so until we move into our bigger apartment (can't wait for that!!). We are living in a place called Motel Bobo. How awesome is that? The owners gave us a great deal on a month stay and every time we come in they smile amusingly at us. (Weird foreigners!) AND, get this, they seriously make my bed every day. And clean my bathroom.

So if you're out there feeling sorry for us, please don't. I am currently forgetting how to clean. And cook. And make my bed.

In other news, I started a new Korean class today. It's a goal of mine to learn more Korean so when it's time for the big baby delivery, I will be able to understand the nurses. My doctor speaks excellent English. But if any of the 10 nurses knows a word of my language, they haven't shown it. They only speak Korean to me every time I go for a visit.

In my Korean class today, my teacher explained "Taegyo" (태교) to me after learning I am 16 weeks pregnant. It's about time to get started in a few Korean motherhood traditions, she suggested!

Taegyo is a very interesting concept. It basically translates to "prenatal culture," or the education of your baby while in the womb.

Taegyo is practices and regulations that a mother should observe in order to have good effects on her unborn child during maternity. More importantly, it is the education of the baby during maternity. It is the idea that when an expectant mother tries to be careful of everything, prudent in speech and action, and keep distance from evil thoughts, it affects the unborn child in good ways.

Practicing Taegyo is largely the responsibility of the woman. The aim of all the rules is to prevent emotional turmoil in the pregnant woman. Proponents of Taegyo point to studies showing the detrimental health effects of stress as supporting their belief that an environment of emotional calm is vitally important to the healthy formation of a child.

Examples of Taegyo includes reading to your baby, talking to your baby, playing music for your baby, and doing yoga--all during the first 9 months of pregnancy. These practices are very common today. For example, both my Korean friend Lucy and my Korean teacher said they have friends who do pages of math every day to help their unborn baby be smarter in math and sciences. Some study English. Others listen to classical music. And this must be done every day.

This practice, which was introduced into Korean culture by the Chinese, dates back to the 1300s. One Korean scholar even said in the 1800s that the ten-month education in the mother's womb is more important than the ten-year education that follows it.

Personally, I think this is a great idea--especially since it promotes a peaceful mind and state of being for the mother during the whole pregnancy. It's well known that stress is not good for the baby. And this goes along my with my own doctor's No. 1 rule: ENJOY YOUR PREGNANCY.

Whit and I without knowing it have already started practicing some forms of Taegyo by reading to our baby every day. Our baby's current favorite? A Light in the Attic by Shel Silverstein--the first book we bought our little one. Whit has even memorized Clarence Lee from Tennessee. We certainly hope that our baby will benefit from all our Taegyo and will not trade us in a for a new version!

Coming to Korea? New changes to the E2 visa process

2010-07-20T02:10:00.000-04:00

Interested in coming to Korea?

There are some new changes taking place as soon as Sept. 1, so make sure to take notice of the new rules.

Here are the changes:

As of Sept. 1, 2010:

All university degrees must be sent to Korea with an apostille. (http://apostilleinfo.com) A copy of the original degree with an apostille is also OK.
Transcripts are no longer needed.

As of Jan. 1, 2011:

All Americans must get an FBI level background check. This also must be apostilled. Read more about how to do order and FBI check here: http://www.fbi.gov/hq/cjisd/fprequest.htm.

Read more about the required documents for obtaining employment in Korea at: http://www.saykimchirecruiting.com/.

Second Half

2010-07-19T22:13:00.000-04:00

Lindsay and I are back in Korea after two blissful weeks in the Philippines. Our time away from Gwangju seemed long overdue after only 4 full months on the peninsula. Somehow, it seemed like we had worn out our welcome in South Korea. People seemed a little less friendly, many of our friends were moving on with their lives in their home country and the forces of nature seemed to be blowing against us.

But we have returned with a new attitude. The monsoon rains are cooling off the hot days, in the evenings you can almost feel fall in the air, we finally have a motel room we can call our own for a month and new friendships are beginning to bud. Not to mention our baby grows a little more everyday. It seems after a slow and rocky start in the Land of the Morning Calm life in Korea has returned to normal.

When we arrived home from the Philippines we were giddy with excitement to return to Korea. Somehow the place that we barely waved goodbye to 2 weeks prior, welcomed us back with open arms. Now things look up. The weather has cooled, the sun is out and the kimchi tastes more delicious than it did before.

4 years, 10 countries

2010-07-13T04:20:00.000-04:00

Hello. Hola. Annyong. Bonjour. Namaste.

We just celebrated four years of wedded bliss. And, as a way to look back to see what we've done in four years, we started going through our favorite keepsakes--our photos. And we realized that we have been to 10 countries in that time.

So we went through the pictures of each country and picked out our favorite 1 or 2. So, without further ado, here they are.

1. Puerta Vallarta, Mexico, 2006 (our honeymoon!)

2. Thailand, 2007 (a two-week adventure before we started teaching in Korea)

3. Korea (2007 - present)

4. China (2008)

5. Vietnam (2008/09) (with our friends Sam n Rik)

6. Cambodia (2008-09)

7. India (2009)

8. France (2009)

9. Canada (2010)

10. Philippines (2010)

To many more years and countries!

A jog through Siquijor

2010-07-04T04:26:00.001-04:00

The other night I went for a run along the coastal road that runs the full 72 km of Siquijor island. I ran 5 km of the road and felt so much hospitality in that little stretch. I ran past children playing, families lounging and teenagers playing basketball. Most Filipinos stare like Koreans but with a smile, a nod and a friendly hello...at least on Siquijor. Along my run I ran with a couple of Filipino boys, spoke to countless people (young and old alike), was invited to play basketball(which seems bigger than any other sport here) and was smiled upon by almost everyone I encountered.

The warmth and hospitality exudes off the people here and there seems to be no price tag. Upon arrival to the island we stopped in a place for food just next to the ferry terminal. I tried to tip our young waitress 25 pesos (about $0.50) and it was politely refused.

Riding around on bikes yesterday everyone wanted to say hello and many wanted us to stop at their stand. We stood around with some kids jumping off a pier and chatted with them for a while. Or rather watched them excitedly do dives and flips off the pier for our amusement. The people of Siquijor really know how to treat people and it is very simple. Smile and say "hello." Simple, yes, but unbelievably refreshing.

Our tropical paradise

2010-07-03T07:21:00.001-04:00

Hello from Siquijor, Philippines!

When we die, I think we will go to Siquijor. It's literally a heaven on Earth--with happy, smiling, friendly residents; beautiful coral reefs, thousands of palm trees; beautiful rustic cottages on the beach; blue-green waters; sunsets that light the sky on fire; and a peace and quiet I haven't experienced in years (being that I live in Korea!).

And on top of all that, there is wi-fi! Of course, I had that planned out before we came so I wouldn't miss a beat on the recruiting front. Other than the twice-daily power outages, it works just fine. :) Below, our cottage.

We spent our first day here in the sea right in front of our cottage. I've never been a big fan of snorkeling, this stemming from a bad experience in Panama City Beach one time on a youth group trip. Since then, I have been scared of what's in the water. I don't wanna know what's swimming beneath me!

But, per usual, Whit talked me into a pair of too-large scuba goggles, some flippers, and pulled me out into the sea. After my initial freak-out that there is life under that blue-green water, I started breathing normally through my mouth piece. And then, we swam out to the coral. And my whole view of snorkeling changed in an instant.

Purple starfish! Amazing coral formations! Starfish with knobs on them (we Googled them: Chocolate Chip Sea Stars); Nemo fish (clown fish) and multitudes of other things that I had only ever seen on trips to the Chattanooga Aquarium or in the expensive fish tanks at E-mart in Korea.

It was amazing. Whit and I swam back and forth pointing out things for hours. And of course, ended up with backs as red as the tropical fish. Stupid!

Today, we spent the day with long sleeves shirt on as we cycled around our area of the island. I've got loads of pics from that, too, but am waiting until tomorrow to upload those.

Until then....

P.S. We started adding photos back to our Picasa gallery. Check them out on the right!

Day 1: Philippines

2010-06-30T05:47:00.000-04:00

Hello from Cebu!

We made it safe and sound to the city of Cebu, Philippines, after our late-night flight last night. Cebu is only a resting place for us as we head out to main destination of Siquijor tomorrow afternoon. (That trip involves a 5-hour ferry ride!) A map in case you're wondering where in the world we are.

But this morning, we headed out to see a few sights around the city of Cebu. We took in a few old churches--Ferdinand Magellan's lasting Catholic legacy on the island. More than 90 percent of Filipinos are Christian. And the churches we've seen so far are outstanding.

The Basilicia Minore Del Santo Nino, which we toured this morning, dates back to Magellan's time in the 1500s. It's survived several fires, and is still standing from when it was rebuilt in the 1700s. Amazing!

Of course my favorite part of our morning was the much more raw walk through Carbon Market, a maze of small streets lined with yellow bananas, pecking chickens, and raw urban living.

We are excited to head out tomorrow to our little island of paradise where we will set up shop. Because it's a busy recruiting time for me, we'll have wi-fi everywhere we go so we will definitely keep you updated on our adventures. And for you mothers out there, don't worry about me (Lindsay). We're taking it easy and slow, touring and traveling at the pace of a turtle, or, more aptly, a pregnant woman.

Adventure awaits...

2010-06-29T08:13:00.000-04:00

I got that tingling feeling in my toes. Eyes wide and checking out everything around me.

That's right, we're off on another adventure! Sitting in the airport in Seoul getting ready to board our flight to the Philippines. A new country; a new destination; a new people. We can't wait!

The evening has started out exciting as, luck would have it, the Korean national soccer team arrived at this very airport to a huge welcome (and about 100 media cameras). Whit and I stuck out our elbows and enjoyed the chaos as the team strolled in to the delighted screams of high school girls and old grandmothers alike around us.

Until the next free wi-fi---

Taking it to the Streets

2010-06-27T10:24:00.001-04:00

Homeless but not without shelter. Our wonderful friends have helped store our stuff and have even given us shelter. We consider ourselves lucky that even after being kicked out of our apartment without another lined up, we still can find a safe, dry and warm place to put our heads at night. We lived with our good friends Chris and Lucy for a long weekend and then decided to live on the road in towns not too far from Gwangju.

Our first stop was Mokpo. A town just 50 minutes by bus from Gwangju and a little longer by train. We love spending time in this quiet coastal town that sometimes seems to be in a state of arrested development. It is a wonderful town with fantastic views from a couple of different mountain peaks. Our favorite is the famous Yudalsan just a few hundred meters from the ferry terminal. From the peak you can see some of the thousands of islands off of Korea's coast and at the base you can listen to a guy playing saxophone. For us he played Michael Jackson's "Billie Jean" when he found out we are American.

Instead of taking off on a ferry to Biguemdo or Heuksando we opted to take a bus to Jindo fot the day. Our mistake. For a 20,000W cab ride we were dropped off at a beach under construction and right across from a youth's training facility. Our plans to camp were thwarted by the facilities' frequent announcements over a loadspeaker and the front endloaders working on the beach right in front of us. The highlight of the trip was eating maeuntang(spicy fish soup) at an outdoor restaurant on the beach. We decided to make the short trip back to Mokpo after a brief and unimpressive day trip to Jindo. Unfortunately for us, we did not have a good day on an island that otherwise has a very good reputation.

So we spent the remainder of the week walking the streets of Mokpo and enjoying the sea air amongst people that are far less concerned with foreigners than they are in Gwangju. Their indifference is kind of nice actually, they look at you like they look at anyone else, Korean or otherwise. We spent most of our time just looking in old storefronts, snapping photos of old houses and marveling at the way Mokpo seems like it is stuck in the 1950s, in a good way.

On Friday we headed to Yeong-am so I could run in the King of the Mountain race on Wolchulsan. Once we checked into our hotel I checked my e-mail to find that it had been canceled due to the tons of rain that would be hitting the peninsula. The next morning I ran anyway. It was wonderful. A constant rain, thick clouds and hardly anyone on the mountain. To make it even better the clouds broke a little on the way down giving me a great view of the valley.

Now we are in Seoul, getting ready to leave for a "babymoon" in the Philippines. As always we love the sights, sounds and shopping of Seoul, but find ourselves missing the superior cuisine of the Jeolla Province. But for now our home is the road and in a few days our home will be on a beach in the Philippines. We'll manage...somehow.

Dae Han Min Guk! And, uh, go America!!!

2010-06-26T04:14:00.000-04:00

I just came across this photo in the New York Times of people celebrating in the streets of Seoul during the last Korea game a few days ago. The photo is part of an interesting article on how the World Cup pendelum is swinging away from Europe and toward both Asia (Korea and Japan) and the Americas.

Korea will play again tonight (as well the U.S.) and we're excited to watch!

Let us know who you're cheering for in our new World Cup poll!

Some Islands of Jeollanamdo

2010-06-23T02:44:00.005-04:00

It's summertime in Korea and if you are a beach person you are in luck. In case you failed World Geography in grade school, then I am here to tell you that Korea is a peninsula. It also has somewhere in the neighborhood of 3000 islands off its coast. Sure Korea has some nice resorts in Busan and Jeju, but almost every Korean and their sachon (사촌) go to one of those in the summer. We have found that it is best to explore some of the islands off the coast and at certain times of the year (even May and June) you can have the beaches all to yourself.

1. Biguemdo- One of the easiest to get to if you live close to Mokpo, Biguemdo is about a two-hour slow ferry ride from the Mokpo Ferry Terminal and has some amazing beaches. One is a heart-shaped beach (Hanumum Beach) with good swimming, a beautiful sunset and small huts you can rent out. There are no supermarkets nearby so come prepared.

Another beach (Wonpyeong Myeongsashipri Beach) is huge and perfect for camping. There is a super just down the beach with some essentials and a restaurant but it is best to come prepared. If you have a problem with wind energy than the sight of distant windmills may bother you, but we can't help but love Biguemdo, its people and its salt flats in the center of the island. There is even some good hiking on the island.

2. Hongdo- This is one of the most famous islands off the coast of Mokpo and most people and guidebooks will tell you you must go there. It's amazing for sure, but it doesn't have a beach because most of the coast line is made up of tall, steep cliffs. However, it is a stunning island and worth checking out. We spent a night here, hiked through the center of the island and took a ferry around it. At the time we were there they were working on a trail that goes along the edge of part of the island making excellent views. The village is small-town Korea and very much a fishing village. It was nice to go there for the quiet. The roads are mostly used by only walkers, bikers and scooters. There are plenty of tourists, but most Koreans make Hongdo a day trip from Mokpo or Heuksando. It is about a 2.5 hour fast boat ride from Mokpo Ferry Terminal. If it is cloudy, bring your barf bag the sea can get rough. It also can be quite expensive at about 40,000W.

3. Heuksando- If I had to be trapped on a deserted island it would be Heuksando. If I could bring three things they would be a hammock, a road bike and a sea kayak. It might be my favorite place in Korea, but it is also kind of a difficult trip to make. It is a shorter ferry ride than Hongdo at about 1.5 hours.

On my first trip there, we took a local bus to a secluded beach where we had a tiny cove all to ourselves. However, we found that we had to go back to the ferry terminal in the village of Yeri on the island for food and drinks. Heuksando is best done with time, a cooler and a way to cook food. But there are also hotels near the ferry terminal where you can stay. Just hop in a cab or the local bus (not too frequent, but constant) for about a 20 minute ride over some gigantic hills with some breathtaking scenary. In town you can rent bikes and pedal up the windy road for amazing views and thrilling ride down. Some tour buses circle the island, but for the most part you have the road around the island to yourself. If you have a long weekend go to Heuksando and pop over to Hongdo for the day.

4. Bogildo- Our group didn't find the cleanest or must beautiful patch of sand in the world, but we were still quite taken with Bogildo. Off the coast of Wando, Bogildo had some of the most beautiful blue water I have seen in Korea. There is a small village on the island, but we hardly saw anyone or heard a car pass by the whole time we were there.

There is also a place to rent bikes and a road on the island that seems hardly used. If you are into Korean poetry, it was here that poet Yun Seondo wrote sijo poetry while living in seclusion on Bogildo. There is a park called Munhakcheheon (문학체헌) that displays his poetry on the trees. Be sure to go to the port at Hwaheung Pohang 12km west of town. Wando has a ferry terminal in town, but it does not send boats to Bogildo.

Whereever you go prepare yourself for beaches that aren't as well maintained or groomed as they are in the west. But for me that is what makes them so special. Instead of being surrounded by other beach seekers you are surrounded by a bustling fishing industry. Most beaches are beautiful but may come with buoys, ropes and trash that have washed ashore Bring trash bags and leave your camping or relaxing area cleaner than you found it!. Be sure to enjoy it for what it is and eat some seafood at one of the many restaurants right next to the sea.

Happy island hopping!

Victory Korea!

2010-06-23T02:00:00.001-04:00

Korea has made it to the round of 16 after some interesting games in the first round. Korea is abuzz with excitement, everyone is wearing red and occasionally cars honk the tune "Dae Han Min Gook" (대한민국, Korean for Korea)! I even set my alarm for 3:30AM to watch the Korea v. Nigeria game and I had no trouble staying awake through the 2-2 draw. Then there is the popular music showing support to the team. See Super Junior's video below.

Go Korea!

Running for two

2010-06-22T07:24:00.000-04:00

On Sunday, we participated in the Pink Marathon 10K.

In Korea, all running races are called marathons, despite the distance. And this one was a 10K and a 5K, and was held to raise money and awareness for breast cancer in Korea.

We had signed up a month ago or so. I knew I was pregnant, but I also knew I could run it. I've still been running a lot (albeit much slower and not as far). So I figured I would make a goal to run it slower than a certain time, rather than faster.

It was a fun goal, and I made it. Whit, on the other hand, finished in 39 minutes, and had time to run to our current home, grab the camera, and ride his bike back to the finish line before I finished.

It was a great race for me, despite my slower time. And, of course, it wasn't too shabby of a first race for the little one inside!! Hopefully the first of many to come (on his/her own!).

World Cup Fever

2010-06-22T07:11:00.000-04:00

Annyong!

So to catch up on events of last week (which was a terribly hectic week!), we wanted to tell you about our first World Cup experience.

As you probably know, most Americans don't watch the World Cup. To be honest, I was like, "Isn't that rugby or something?" (Whit and my new roomie Chris have started a quotebook of ridiculous Lindsay-isms on World Cup soccer. They either think it's either hilarious or hilariously scary.)

I was never a soccer fan, though I did at one time in my youth have an awesome pink soccer ball, which I think I used as a basketball, my preferred sport. In high school, I went to a few games, but only for the eye candy, if you know what I mean.

So, needless to say, to be in a country where soccer is extremely popular and the World Cup is more than a 15-second news clip in the middle of the night, has really been eye-opening for me.

And, most surprisingly, I LOVE it. I never realized soccer was so fun to watch. I have gotten into every game I I have watched so far. I have rooted for the U.S. and dressed up in Korea gear to cheer for my adopted home.

Across the country, the Korea games are aired on huge outdoor big screens in parks, stadiums, restaurants, bars and city halls. We are lucky enough to live near (or I should say "squat" near) Gwangju's World Cup Stadium, built for the 2002 World Cup in Korea and Japan. Normally, it's a place where I go to shop, eat Dunkin Donuts, and go jogging, but last week, it transformed completely into the stadium it was meant to be.

Thousands, and I mean, literally, thousands, of red-clad fans piled into the stadium (free of charge, of course! This is Korea!) to watch the game on the big screen. They had already had a strong showing in their first game, and now they were up againsnt Argentina, one of the strongest in the World Cup.

So Whit and I bought some T-shirts, a little Korean flag, a scarf, and some devil horns (Korea "Red Devils") to wear and headed on down to the stadium.

Needless to say, I walked into the most lively stadium I've seen in my whole life. Fans screaming, fireworks bursting overhead, and every seat in that stadium filled. I had goosebumps just experiencing it.

Korea didn't win this game, but they did score a goal, which was reason enough for another round of fireworks.

I couldn't believe it, but this was the most fun sporting event I had ever been to. And no one was even on the field (the PITCH, Whit and Chris say, correcting me).

Tonight Korea plays again, against Nigeria. It will be on at 3:30 in the morning. We're currently out of town, traveling and enjoying life in and around our province. But we plan to try and get up and watch it.

Until next time, Dae Ha Min Guk!!! (Go Korea!)

And then there were three

2010-06-22T06:33:00.000-04:00

Annyong!

So, most of you already know, but we figured it was time to post on Kimchi and Cornbread that we will soon be adding a little addition to our little family. And no, it's not another fish!

We are expecting a baby the first week of January! He/she will be born in Korea. And we are so excited!

We plan to share our experience with you, and hopefully this blog can also be a resource for other foreign women in Korea who want to do the same thing.

So far, it's been great. As we enter the second trimester, we are happy to have a doctor who speaks English (fairly well); healthy ultrasounds once a month (that's how they do it in Korea); and a price so cheap compared to American standards I shouldn't even post it. Just last week, we got a government issued card for all pregnant women in Korea that will literally pay for the next 3 to 4 months of prenatal care. This is because of Korea's low birth rate, one of the lowest in the world. The government is offering more and more discounts and tax breaks to families in Korea who have children.

To answer any of your questions, yes! We will have this baby in Korea! Yes, our doctor is great! And yes, we are so excited!

We thank you all for your support across the globe! We'll keep you updated!

Life in the fast lane

2010-06-17T03:35:00.000-04:00

Life has turned into a crazy whirlwind for us this week.

We signed a contract on an amazing new apartment, which we will move into in August. And, in a stroke of pure unluckiness, someone is now ready to move into our current apartment and we have 3 days to get out. This is just part a long stream of a boring drama with our landlord, who is not a very nice person.

So, long drama short, we're somewhat homeless for a month or so. But don't worry, we've got grand plans.

Next week we're gonna travel around this beautiful country. And the following Tuesday, we're flying out for a two-week stint in the Philippines.

We'll definitely be blogging about our travels and experiences. So stay tuned!

Talk to Me in Korean

2010-06-14T00:28:00.000-04:00

Lindsay and I have tried our best to get a lot more serious about learning Korean. Some days our Korean is better than others, but we try. We have taken classes at the Gwangju International Center (GIC), paid for lessons at Korean Class 101, and we have enjoyed the new blog Talk to Me in Korean. All are worthy teachers, but I have found that I keep recommending Talk to Me in Korean to anyone wanting to study the language.

Talk to Me in Korean is run by a native Gwangju-vian, Hyunwoo Sun and staffs other very helpful and very funny Korean teachers. Sun studies English, Japanese, French, Chinese and Spanish and has a real gift for teaching his mother tongue. He started out at Korean Class 101 and has since started his own company, G9Languages.

For the beginning students TTMIK breaks down all of the components of a Korean sentence while teaching you important vocabulary in an interesting way. They use video to teach vocabulary and short lessons to teach you the grammar. Not even my Korean teacher could teach me how to use object markers like they did in 20 minutes. Oftentimes I listen for good methods for teaching a foreign language because they really know what they are doing.

So, if you are looking to learn Korean then definitely check them out on ITunes or at their youtube site or at their website http://www.talktomeinkorean.com/.

안녕히 가세요!!

World Cup Fever

2010-06-11T06:45:00.003-04:00

If this doesn't get you pumped then you need to check your pulse.

Go South Korea!!!

Bicycle Commuting in Korea

2010-06-09T04:08:00.001-04:00

For our first two years in South Korea I owned a motorcycle. Okay, it was only 125cc but next to the other Korean bikes and scooters it looked like a hog. I loved it. I felt like a 21st-century urban cowboy outrunning taxis and trying to beat the traffic lights.

But also like a cowboy I felt lucky to make it home in one piece after a ride. Korean car drivers are the enemy to the modern day urban cowboy. Some days it feels like they are gunning for you. And why not? Motorcyclist in Korea are flashy, ride dangerously and always cuts to the front of traffic at a stoplight.

I often felt more disrespected on my motorcycle then the man I use to see everyday in a tunnel on my commute. He was older than God and he would be cycling through the tunnel against traffic while carrying a load of cardboard on his bike. Cars always gave him a wide berth. Those same cars would pass by me blaring their horn close enough for me to smell the kimchi on the passenger's breath. So with that man in mind, I bought a road bike when we came back to Korea.

Cycling use to be a prominent method of transport in Korea. Not until the 1970s did cars begin to overtake bikes. Perhaps this is why Korean drivers still tend to respect cyclist. It is very common to see an old man or woman cycling through town oftentimes in traffic I wouldn't dream of getting in. Even the kids here have a talent for riding double through busy streets and sidewalks. This sight never fails to bring a smile to my face. But largely, bikes are gone and Hyundais and Kias rule the roads.

Nevertheless, with a helmet firmly on my head, sneakers on my feet and business attire on, I make my way across town to school along with my cycling bretheren the retired people and the school children. We integrate ourselves into the sea of cars heading to work.

So far I have found it to be a little safer than riding a motorcycle, but I still have to be very alert. Here are some of my personal tips for riding in a Korean city.

1. Assume nothing. Don't assume the car is going to stop. Don't assume that the taxi isn't going to stop abruptly right in front of you. Don't assume that pedestrian will look both ways before stepping out in front of you. Don't assume that a bus won't pull out right in front of you. Koreans seem to never look to see what is coming. Don't assume that they are looking for you.

2. Proceed cautiously. Don't be the first person though an intersection. Traffic lights are a suggestion. Without fail, a car goes barreling through an intersection after the light has turned red. You don't want to be in front of that. I always let a car go first through an intersection before I proceed.

3. Be clear about your intentions. Learn your signals and use them. Cars have no bones about passing you on double lines. Be sure they know if you are making a left or not so they don't choose to pass you as you are making your turn.

4. Stay calm. Panicking isn't going to help you on the road. If you have to, take it to the sidewalk. Korea has adequate sidewalks and plenty of people cycle on them.

Also check out Jan Boonstra's more detailed cycling in Korea tips and helpful website.

Swimming in Korea

2010-06-07T23:53:00.001-04:00

Annyong! Lindsay here again.

We had a reader asking about swimming opportunities in Gwangju. Unfortunately, I don't know about any outdoor swimming pools or swimming areas in Gwangju city proper. (Are there any outdoor swimming pools? Someone let me know if there are!)

But my favorite places to swim in Korea are definitely the beaches. While they do have official opening dates, it's also nice to get there before opening day and enjoy the pristine empty beaches all for yourself for a month.

According to the Korea Tourism Organization, beaches nationwide are pushing up their opening dates this year in response to the increased number of visitors last summer.

The first beaches opening to the public this season are Myeongsasimni Beach (명사십리 해수욕장) on Wan-do Island and Ujeon Beach on Jeung-do Island, both of which will be open starting May 20th.

Haeundae Beach in Busan, one of the nation’s most popular beaches, will be open to the public every Saturday and Sunday until its official season kicks off on July 1st, after which it will be open daily.

Beaches across the country are currently undergoing maintenance in preparation for the peak season. Lodging facilities and restaurants located nearby beaches are also preparing to reopen.

City officials also plan to set up temporary police offices and administrative service offices in the surrounding areas for the added comfort and safety of beach-goers.

Beach opening dates (Summer of 2010)

East Sea
July 1
Sokcho Beach (속초 해수욕장), Gangwon-do Sokcho-si

July 1
Gyeongpodae Beach
(경포대 해수욕장),
Gangwon-do Gangneung-si

July 1
Samcheok Beach
(삼척 해수욕장),
Gangwon-do Samcheok-si

July 1
Guryongpo Beach
(구룡포 해수욕장),
Gyeongsangbuk-do Pohang-si

West Sea (Yellow Sea)

June 26
Daecheon Beach
(대천 해수욕장),
Chungcheongnam-do Boryeong-si

July 3
Muchangpo Beach
(무창포 해수욕장),
Chungcheongnam-do
Boryeong-si

July 1
Eurwangni Beach
(을왕리 해수욕장),
Incheon-si Jung-gu

South Sea

Late June
Jungmun Beach
(중문 해수욕장),
Jeju Seogwipo-si

June 26
Hyeopjae Beach
(협재 해수욕장),
Jeju-si Hallim-eup

July 1
Haeundae Beach
(해운대 해수욕장),
Busan-si Haeundae-gu

May 20
Myeongsasimni Beach
(명사십리 해수욕장),
Jeollanam-do Wando-gun Sinji-myeon

I want to ride my bicycle

2010-06-07T03:57:00.001-04:00

Annyong! Lindsay here on a lovely Monday afternoon in Gwangju.

Well, summer has finally made it's hot, humid appearance--and this weekend, it showed up with a few bangs, rolls of thunder, flashes of lightning and even some hail.

Of course this was about 10 minutes after blue skies and the 85-degree weather lured us out of the apartment on our bicycles (I got a new one!) with a watermelon in our basket and the peaceful rice fields on the edge of the city as our destination.

Just as we stepped into our favorite little lake- and rice field-adjacent pagoda, the skies opened up. Large plops of rain covered the constant croaking of the bull frogs and we realized we were stuck. But, we weren't worried, we had watermelon, which we sliced open and shared with our friend and a few Korean kids out on a triple date (ha!).

An hour went by and we realized this storm was not going anywhere. We were going to have to make a ~~run~~ ride for it. As the rain let up for a solitary moment, we hopped on our beach cruising bikes and headed back across the rice fields toward home. Of course it was at that moment, as we were out in the open, that the skies opened again and hail started falling, lighting streaked the sky and thunder rolled. I narrowly missed a bullfrog hopping from one rice paddy field to another. (Whit says he didn't realize I could move that fast on my bike. ha.)

It was one of those moments that felt like we were in a movie. We were soaked, laughing and shrieking until we pulled over at a small Buddhist temple to get shelter and a dry towel from the nice monk lady with the bald head.

We eventually made it home, despite the fact my summer dress was completely soaked.

What a fun afternoon. Here are a few pics from around town (sans the rain) of my new bike.

This woman, above, cracked me up because as I stood here taking a picture of her walking backward, she continued to keep walking backward until she ran into me.

These two men didn't know each other but sat down together under a bridge downtown and just sat quietly and watched the water go by.

King of the Mountain

2010-06-03T03:49:00.002-04:00

On June 26th I am planning on running across Wolchulsan National Park in Korea and I am very excited.

Wolchulsan

I will be running the second annual "King of the Mountain" race organized by fellow ex-pat Stuart Aird that will benefit the Environmental Awareness Education Program. The EAEP is a program conceived by another ex-pat and Gwangju resident Andrea Hildebrand. They volunteer their time to teaching elementary school kids to be more eco-concious. This is a very worthy cause given that littering in the streets of Gwangju is done on such a casual basis by many of its residents.

Korean combat hiking on Wolchulsan. Don't be fooled Korean hikers are some of the nicest people in the world.

Here is more information from the King of the Mountain website. Go here to register.

The challenge is on. To run from one side of Wolchulsan to the other and claim the title of "King of the Mountain!"The race will take you from near sea level, almost vertically up to 809 meters above sea level, then across a ridge to the second peak of 743m and down the other side, finishing about 8.6 kilometers later, in the beautiful temple surroundings of Dogapsa.

There will be an entrance fee of W5000 (possible to pre-paid on regristration). This year the profits will go to a group trying to raise awareness and empower the youth of Korea to care for their environment. The non-profit orginisation is called Environmental Awareness Education Program.

Lindsay's weather forecast for tomorrow: Sunny with more blog posts

2010-06-02T22:28:00.005-04:00

Annyong!

Sorry for our ridiculous lack of blog posting. But life has been hectic for us in Korea lately. But, no worries, we will make up for it.

One thing that has kept me from doing more productive things like blogging is my recent obsession with a new Korean drama, Personal Preference. If anyone out there is bummed that all your regular TV viewing programs are on their summer hiatus, then I have a suggestion. KOREAN DRAMA.

As Whit says, they were made specifically with me in mind. They are cheesy. Romantic. Infinitely naive. And ALWAYS have happy endings.

We just finished this latest Korean drama, Personal Preference, starring hunky Korean heart throb Lee Min-Ho as a guy who pretends to be gay to move into this girl's awesome house (he's an architect). Of course, they fall in love. And everyone lives happily ever after.

There are a few great sites that offer these Korean dramas with English subtitles. My favorites are www.mysoju.com and our recent favorite, http://www.midnights-dreams.com/.

P.S. And I'm sorry if you don't get the title of this blog. Watch a few Personal Preferences, and you'll be hooked to Gae-in's daily weather forecasts.

It's 5 o'clock somewhere

2010-05-12T06:59:00.000-04:00

Annyong!

Sorry we have been slow to blog recently but things are busy here in the land of kimchi. Spring is here and the flowers are blooming and the temperature is rising (finally!).

We took full advantage of this most wonderful weather last weekend with our first camping trip of the season. As you might remember, we love to camp, especially on the beautiful islands south of us, just a quick ferry ride to paradise.

We got a big group together and headed to our old favorite--Bigeumdo, a beautiful island with big beaches, big skies, big mountains and lots of salt flats.

We lazed under the sun, walked a tight rope one awesome couple set up at our campsite, played soccer, went running, grilled lots of meat and veggies, told stories around a campfire, and just had an amazing time.

This is the first of three weekends that Whit and I are headed out of Gwangju. Next up: the amazing Lotus Lantern Festival in Seoul next weekend.

But for now, enjoy the pics from last weekend.

Getting ready for Buddha's Birthday

2010-05-03T20:15:00.002-04:00

This photo was in the Korea Times today. From the caption it is unclear if these are monks in training or just kids off the street who had their head's shaved at a temple in Seoul. The contrast in reactions tickled me.

Buddha's birthday is coming up on the 21st and the lotus lanterns are coming out all over Korea. In Korea this day is called 석가탄신일 (Seokga tansinil), meaning "the day of Buddha's birthday" or 부처님 오신 날 (Bucheonim osin nal) meaning "the day when Buddha arrived". Most of the lanterns symbolize health, longevity and rich harvest.

We'll be headed to Seoul to see the Lotus Lantern Festival for the second time. Besides for being an interesting festival, it is also a reminder of just how aesthetically pleasing Buddhism can be.

Joy in Flexibility

2010-05-02T22:27:00.004-04:00

Probably the most important advice I can give someone on their way to Korea is to be flexible. You have no idea what each day will bring. The language barrier, the last minute planning and just the strangeness of being in this eastern culture requires a flexible attitude.

Luckily, I am flexible. But even yesterday as I found myself at the starting line of a half-marathon, in a Gwangju Eodeung Marathon Club singlet, rubbing the shoulders of the man in front of me and feeling very lucky that I decided to eat breakfast earlier that morning; I couldn't believe how my morning had blindsided me.

Last Sunday we accidentally ran into a running club while my little running club was out on our Sunday run. This group of men, with one or 2 women, insisted we join them the following Sunday in Jangseong, a small town just 30 minutes outside of Gwangju. From what I understood, on Sundays they ran for a while and then gorged themselves on good food and makkoli. How could I possibly not join?

So all week I thought we would be joining a casual run. Two other foreign guys from my club decided to join and we hopped in the back of a club member's Hyundai at about 7AM yesterday en route to Jangseong.

As we pulled into town our first clue that we had unknowingly agreed to an organized race was a kilometer marker on the road. "Is this a race?" Jon asked me as I had been the liaison for the group. "Huh," I stupidly replied, "It appears that it is."

We were assigned bibs, stretched with the team and toed the line with the group. After a beautiful run through Jangseong with lots of farmers and children cheering us on through their rural, mountainous town. I couldn't help but wonder if any of them had seen me last year when I was pulled onto a stage in their town and asked to sing a Beatles song on their karaoke machine. Too flexible?

After the race we ate and drank an endless supply of kimchi, tofu, raw fish, pork, lettuce wraps, rice and makkoli. I drank with my new friend who I ran silently beside except for the occasional grunts of approval and encouragement we gave each other as we struggled over hills in the hot sun.

Sitting around trying to understand what my new friends were saying to me in Korean I realized that this was one of my favorite races ever and it was followed by the best post-race party I have ever been to. I also wondered what other races I was agreeing to in the future.